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Rust converter by Quest Chemical

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2cylinderlp

06-14-2007 13:47:04




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Is anyone familiar with this product by Quest Chemical? The claim for this product is that it converts rust and then leaves a durable coating that can be left as is or painted. Apparently it is more than just a phosphoric acid treatment because they describe a clear acrylic coating being formed. I tried to get some, but I'll keep it short by saying it is a waste of time trying to deal directly with Quest. They have distributers but can't tell me which ones carry the product. Does anybody know of a distributer that stocks this product? Or is there a similar product from another source?

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Rod (NH)

06-14-2007 17:39:17




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 Re: Rust converter by Quest Chemical in reply to 2cylinderlp, 06-14-2007 13:47:04  
Hi,

I haven't used the Quest product but will say there are loads of "miracle" rust treatments out there that all claim to solve the problem with rust. The tech sheet for the Quest Rust Converter suggests it is a water-based product that appears somewhat similar to either the Loctite "EXTEND" Rust Treatment or the Permatex Rust Treatment, which is the same stuff as the Loctite.

I've used the Permatex product before. It should be readily available at your local NAPA store. I had excellent luck with it on an AC-B gasoline tank but terrible luck with it on a Chev truck roof. The truck roof problem could have been my own fault by applying a lacquer-based primer over it. I don't know for sure since there was no caution about doing that in the product instructions. My mixed experience with it has led me away from it to other products.

The best solution to rust is complete removal, usually by bright-metal sandblasting. However, I realize that is not always feasible or practical. For those specific situations, where there is light-to-medium rusting, I now use Picklex 20 as a prep before epoxy priming. The Picklex is a phosphoric acid-based product. Where the rust is more significant, I now use POR 15.

The Permatex product is easy to use and resonably non-toxic. I suspect the Quest product is similar. The Picklex 20 is also easy to use and I have had excellent luck with it so far. The POR 15 is a little tricky to use because of the required prep but I think it is the most robust of the "rust treatments" I've tried. Unfortunately, it is also quite toxic, being a one-part, moisture-cured, isocyanate product. Breathing the fumes or overspray can be hazardous to your health. Supplied-air respiratory equipment is advised. Wherever I've used the POR 15 in the last couple of years, I've had excellent luck with it - so far. It is brutallly tough stuff when cured. I've never seen a brush-applied product flow out as nicely and as easily as the POR 15.

There is another "rust paint" that I have tried, called Zero Rust. My very first (and definitely last) experience with it was extremely disappointing. I didn't get through one square foot of application before I decided to toss it and do the project with something else. Unlike the POR 15, it is the most difficult paint to brush-apply that I have ever seen. It should be thinned but the can label prominently displays a "Do Not Thin" caution. There are absolutely no other label usage directions and the manufacturer's on-line instructions are self-contradictory. I find that to be totally unacceptable and cannot recommend the stuff to anyone. There are others that seem to rave about how good it is, but it's not for me.

Regarding the Quest product; If the manufacturer is unable to tell you where you can buy some, either locally or on-line, I'd find another product. Even if you can find a local distributor, you may find he carries some of the Quest products but doesn't stock the product you want. It then becomes a special order and he may not want to do that w/o delays because of minimum purchase requirements or something. You may know that drill. There are plenty of options out there and I doubt the Quest product is sufficiently "better" than others to justify much bother in getting it. I've purchased both the Picklex 20 and the POR 15 from on-line souces which have been easy and quick, shipping by UPS.

As always, YMMV.

third party image Rod

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john_bud

06-17-2007 05:13:55




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 Re: Rust converter by Quest Chemical in reply to Rod (NH), 06-14-2007 17:39:17  
Rod,

Have you tried Dupont Corlar 2.1 PR industrial primer? It is about $100 for a gallon of components to make 2 gal of primer. It seems to be about the same stuff as POR 15 in performance/specs. It is a NON SANDING primer - too hard to sand. Specs claim it is good for immersion (inside of tanks. I've sprayed it - it is THICK and needs a pressure pot sprayer. Goes on with a "hammered" finish so probably not good for sheet metal, but ok for cast.

www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo/dic/Corlar2-1PR.pdf

Just wondering..

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Rod (NH)

06-17-2007 16:03:22




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 Re: Rust converter by Quest Chemical in reply to john_bud, 06-17-2007 05:13:55  
John,

I've never tried any of the DuPont epoxy primers, automotive or industrial, even though I sometimes use DuPont's Centari as a topcoat. I am a firm believer in epoxy primer however, and got started with it years ago using PPG's DP. In recent years I have moved to PPG's OMNI MP170 epoxy primer as a more cost-effective product than the DP (now the lead-free DPLF) and have been very pleased with that, as I always was with the DP.

I haven't seen any epoxy primer being promoted, rightly or wrongly, as a "rust paint" like the POR15 and some others. Epoxy is a different animal than a moisture-cured urethane, but it is basically impervious to moisture. I don't think epoxy in general is as "tough" or as abrasion resistant as the POR15 appears to be, but it's safer to use since most epoxies do not require isocyanate-containing additives. I've wondered how epoxy would perform as a "rust paint/rust encapsulator" by being applied directly to a sound, rusty surface. I just haven't seen any studies or evaluations addressing that specific use of it and have no experience in trying it that way.

Rod

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2cylinderlp

06-15-2007 22:09:56




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 Re: Rust converter by Quest Chemical in reply to Rod (NH), 06-14-2007 17:39:17  
Thanks Rod for a more comprehensive answer than what I was expecting. I appreciate the time you put into it. I really have just limited experience with some of these products. I have tried a few phosphoric acid washes. They don't impress me much because of the powdery residue they produce. I have not used Picklex 20 which I suspect may be a stronger concentration. The only special rust paint that I have used is Bill Hirsh Miracle Paint which I believe is a water hardening urethane. It was some very tough stuff that sets up when exposed to humidity in the air.

The tractor that I am working on is all disassembled and I have removed just about all the old paint. I am having a little trouble with rust forming on the clean parts and I was hoping to find a product that would keep the rust under control without being a problem itself as phosphorics seem to be with the residue. I'm using electrolysis to remove most of the paint from parts now, but in the past I sanded it off. Doing it that way, it was common for me to find rust under the old JD paint and there was no use of primer. That surface rust didn't seem to be causing any problem so maybe there is a little leeway as far as how perfect it has to be.

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R Matthew Songer

06-25-2007 12:46:41




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 Re: Rust converter by Quest Chemical in reply to 2cylinderlp, 06-15-2007 22:09:56  
The powder from the phosphoric acid doesn't seem to cause any issues. I rub parts with a scotchbrite, blow them off and shoot some primer just as fast as I can manage it. I live in the south, in a river bottom, and I can't beat the flash rust unless I do it this way. I never sandblast, but I do use walnut shell when I need to do large areas fast. It cuts the rust without taking away the metal. Especially important on fragile sheet metal.

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