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Antique Tractor Paint and Bodywork

bodywork on a JD H hood

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1951g

11-10-2006 07:52:16




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I'm still new to bodywork. Having said that, I've sandblasted a JD H hood and have gone back and used a filler called Halftime that is 2 part epoxy. Also, I'm trying to straighten some of the dents out and have been successful. My question now is how do you get the wavy part out of the sheet metal? I was thinking of using a torch and laying the hood flat on the concrete and using some type of deadblow hammer after heating it periodically. I'm open for any good suggestions on how to get the waves out of the metal. Thanks in advance.

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Kent In KC

11-16-2006 07:44:40




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 Re: bodywork on a JD H hood in reply to 1951g, 11-10-2006 07:52:16  
Beating metal will eventually stretch it, causing waviness or oil-canning. Some of that can be remedied by alternately heating the metal with a torch and cooling it with water to shrink it. Its a bit of an art that maybe some of the other fellows can expound on.



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B-maniac

11-10-2006 16:56:06




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 Re: bodywork on a JD H hood in reply to 1951g, 11-10-2006 07:52:16  
First of all,put the torch away.You don't want or need heat on sheet metal! You can use hammers,dollys,rubber blocks or any number of things to straighten out sheet metal. There's really no magic to it.Get it as straight as possible WITHOUT hammering it out TOO far. You will always need body filler to get the last 10% straight,so you will have to leave the surface just short of being bumped out all the way.Use the longest sanding blocks possible to sand the filler and the surfacer after that. If it's too wavey , it maybe wiser to just replace it with one in better starting condition.Not everything SHOULD be repaired! If you are one who just despises the thought of "bondo" then start shopping for straight metal. There are no magic "irons" to re-stamp dented sheet metal. There is nothing wrong with bondo if used properly. Good Luck.

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1951g

11-13-2006 11:06:19




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 Re: bodywork on a JD H hood in reply to B-maniac, 11-10-2006 16:56:06  
Thanks for the information. Unfortunately, I don't know of anyone reproducing the H hoods yet. I've got body filler in it now, just didn't want to have to worry about filler coming loose under the paint in the future. I sandblasted hood, then sprayed rust-no-more (phosphoric acid) from Home depot to kill any residual rust in the pit holes on metal. Then I left to dry for a couple of days and wire brushed hood and started beating out the dents and proceeded with filling in what holes I could.

The only problem now is it still has alot of wavyness to it. I"ve got it pretty smooth by wetsanding the bondo but can't seem to get all of it worked out.

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CNKS

11-13-2006 20:02:42




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 Re: bodywork on a JD H hood in reply to 1951g, 11-13-2006 11:06:19  
Keep the bondo at no more than 1/8 inch, preferably 1/16. Dry sand it, there is no reason to wet sand, wear a charcoal mask with prefilters to keep the dust out of your nose and lungs. It may be wavy because you sandblasted it. And, you can create waviness by getting bondo or surfacer too thick.



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1951g

11-14-2006 08:24:21




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 Re: bodywork on a JD H hood in reply to CNKS, 11-13-2006 20:02:42  
Yep, that's what I was afraid of. I tried to sandblast it from a distance in order to not warp it but probably did some. I've tried to keep the bondo less than 1/8 but what brand of sandpaper and what grit would you recommend using that doesn't clog so bad with the bondo? That was pretty much the only reason I had been wet sanding due to that. I've been using 100grit wet/dry. Thanks again for the help.

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rustyj14

12-02-2006 13:15:32




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 Re: bodywork on a JD H hood in reply to 1951g, 11-14-2006 08:24:21  
When sanding plastic filler (Bondo) you should use open coat sand paper. There is a paper made that is 40 grit, which you should use to block sand the bondo. then use 80 grit paper to fine tune the sanding process. Always use the sand paper on a long block of wood, or something you can put the paper on. They sell a long sanding board, with paper clamps, that will take the "long skinnies" of either 40 or 80 paper, and which are great for finding low spots. Most if not all auto body supply shops have those boards available. Never use wet sandpaper on fresh cured Bondo! It will make it separate from whatever you put it on. After you have it sanded down to where you want it, then prime, and sand it with wet sand paper on a block. Use a guide coat, available at supply store, in a rattle can. Spray the guide coat on the job before you sand, This lets you see where the low or high spots are. A light coat is all that is needed, and block sand it when dry. Repainting is a tough, hard, time-spending task, if you want to do it right. There ain't any short-cuts. In as much as you have warped the metal by sand blasting it, you might be better off to buy another part. Or, take it to a professional auto body shop and have them fix up yer mistakes.

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