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1755 Hydrolic housing removal

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1755

06-12-2006 15:51:12

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it is spiting the gasket out behind the top link bracket in betwean the hydrolic housing and the rear end and hydrolic oil runing out I was happy that I did not find a crack in the housing now I have to figur out if I can take the housing off or if it is going to have to go back in to get it fixed what keeps the hydrolic oil out of the rear end I have seen the rear end with hydrolics removed on tractors at the salvage yard and it is open is there a tin pan seperating them ? I only see one gasket there? I did not get to look at the books to see how much is invalved in it
Can this be done without disterbing the pump and the remote valves or do all the bolts and lines have to come off Thanks Thomas

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Rexalot

06-13-2006 06:39:53

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Re: 1755 Hydrolic housing removal in reply to 1755, 06-12-2006 15:51:12

If it is anything like the 1800, it"s not very hard. First you will want to drain the unit. If you have the manual read up on how to "pump" the old fluid out. If you don"t when you seperate the housing from the rear end the hydraulic oil will end up in the transmission and rear end ruining that fluid. (In my situation I had the top cover off and after draining per the manual I used a suction tool to get it all.)

Pull the seat, pull the floor pans on the left and right, and unbolt. I used an engine hoist and three short chains. The IT shop manual notes where to hook the chains, although I used two of the seat mounts and into the pump drive gear cover.

The hydraulic housing is seperated from the rear end by 2 gaskets and a metal pan. The pan is retained in the housing by 2 dowel pins. These will need driven out one the housing is pulled.

The gaskets are available at the AGCO dealer. I can"t remember the cost of them specifically, but I resealed my entire housing and replaced all the orings/gaskets for just under $100.

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Formerly PaMike

06-12-2006 16:04:35

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Re: 1755 Hydrolic housing removal in reply to 1755, 06-12-2006 15:51:12

There is a pan with a gasket on each side. This keeps the hydraulic oil out of the rear end. You will have to unbolt the remote valves to get to a bolt that is behind them. The pump stays in place, just take off the pressure lines that connect to the housing. You unbolt the seat and screw eye bolts into those holes. Get a cherry picker and lift it off. Its heavy, be careful

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1755

06-13-2006 20:16:03

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Re: 1755 Hydrolic housing removal in reply to Formerly PaMike, 06-12-2006 16:04:35

I went to the salvage yard and looked at one it looked like there is all kinds of stuff to take off. I am afrad of the remots and those 4 lines out the front I had the floor out looking into the Hydrolic lines and wires to the temp sensor and those lines are rusty do they have give to them when they are lose or do you have to work around them Is there any thing els I need to do while I am in there orings that go bad all the time or any thing
thanks

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WFE 2

06-14-2006 06:15:34

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Re: 1755 Hydrolic housing removal in reply to 1755, 06-13-2006 20:16:03

If you have the right combination of sockets, swivels, and extensions, you need not remove the hydraulic remotes. You may find it easier to leave all those hyd. remote hoses intact by just bundling them together and as you hoist the unit from the tractor, keep the remote hoses and couplers with the hyd. housing. Unless you have a leak to address anyway between the valves, I'd leave them alone as reassembling them with the o-rings in between can sometimes be a challenge. You will still need to get to that bolt that is tucked behind the valves, just under the 3 pt. rockshaft. I have removed the arm from the rockshaft to get better access. After that, removal of the housing is pretty quick and simple.

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Rexalot

06-14-2006 05:58:28

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Re: 1755 Hydrolic housing removal in reply to 1755, 06-13-2006 20:16:03

I can't think of anything else you would need to do under the housing "while your there" unless you wanted to change the pump or something. I would just replace both of the gaskets. If you split the top cover off or pull the pump you might consider new orings.

I'm not familiar enough with the 1755 to have a mental picture of the remote set up. The 1800 has 2 remotes on each side screwed right into the housing via short pipes and elbows. It also has 2 lines that go into the priority valve (in my case on the front, later versions the valve is on the side).

My remotes didn't require removal to get to any bolts, and I took the lines of without any problems.

I know it looks intimidating, mine did at first. Once the wrenches started turning I had it split down in about 5 hours and in manly fashion I didn't even look at my IT manual... although I wish I had afterwards as I would have known how your supposed to drain it (and its not by the big plug on the left that looks like a drain plug!)

PB blaster the rusty lines and let them soak. Then using a proper line wrench take your time. I bet that they will screw right out. Mine did.

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1755

06-14-2006 18:53:16

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Re: 1755 Hydrolic housing removal in reply to Rexalot, 06-14-2006 05:58:28

I will have to take a few parts off and get a beter look maby this weekend but it is geting full of other things to do if I dont have to take off the remotes it might not be so bad I have to replase the consol someone put another valve on and they torched the hole out insted of bending the lever and geting it to line up thanks

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