1948 8n-- no spark

Jab, The original 12V coil was ~ 4.0 ohms but that was its own problem. The newer 12 Volt coil you got is 2.5 Ohms and requires a OEM Ballast instead of the .5 ohm.

You can keep installing a .5 ohm and burn up good coils.. your choice!

The square coils that are labeled as 12v are about 2.5 ohm coils.. thus the need for the 1/2 ohm dropping ressitor.

The oem ballest resistor is for use with the 6v square coil. If you run the 6v square coil on 12v, you need the oem ballast resistor, and a dropping resistor like the 8ne10306.

Do some online research.. It's easy to find graphs showing coil ohm values and the resistors used to make them work. They all fall at 2.8-3.2 ohms... Putting 3ohms in the middle.. etc.

Soundguy

The IC14sb is a low RPM coil used on old Jeep & Checker Motors, 4 & 6 cyl engines. 3 ohms is not a normal automotive 12 coil. The hi-performance coils will be 1 ohm or less.

The round coil is oil filled and robust but the front mount is not, although some believe that little elves are responsible in redistributing melted tar back to the top of the coil or that some other unknown phenomena will overcome gravity. The physical properties of overheated Copper are well known, brittle, discolored & resistive (in spots) This is responsible for most household fires when a new receptacle is installed, because of a loose overheated connection, without re-stripping the old wiring to good copper. (oxidation is not the same as discoloration)

The OEM 6 volt Front Mount normal 6 volt thermal dissipation is 9 watts, with Ballast. If the ballast is bypassed watts = 49 and this results in over heat damage.

A coil with 2.5 ohms & .5 resistor will need to dissipate a MAX of 57.6 watts (4.8 X 4.8)x 2.5

A coil with 2.5 ohms & OEM Ballast will only need to dissipate a Max of 23 watts (3 X 3)X 2.5

If the tractor "starts" & runs with the OEM ballast you have a ~ 3:1 thermal advantage.

JMHO

You know the "infamous ballast resistor" is nominally about 1.4 ohms at operating temperature. (it ranges from about 0.4 when really cold to about 1.7 when really hot) and when I went to school, 2.5 + 1.4 = 3.9. This means a reduced current flow in the coil primary winding and resultant WEAKER magnitic field to induce the high voltage secondary. Its all about electo-magnetic theory. Its AMPS that make magnetic fields.

Interesting that you claim the NAPA IC14-SB is a low rpm coil for 4-cyl Jeeps and 6-cyl Checker cabs (Continental Motors flathead six?, I can't remember). Does that mean that our recommended useage as a real 12-volt coil that uses NO RESISTOR on 2000-rpm 4-cyl N-Engines is outta specs?..... ..respectfully, Dell

The original 12 coil was closer to 4.0 ohms and your .5 ohm resistor was a good solution, an oem ballast doesn't work, but since they changed the coil to 2.5 ohms PPL are burning out coils. The only way that a coil will overheat is if the current is TOO high and that is a design fault, Wrong Components.

The choice is actually simple. If you are wrong the coil melts resulting in $$ damage. If I am wrong the tractor won't start & run but “no” damage is done and you can change it.

RE: 3 ohm round coils.. If the coil can dissipate the heat, and it can, why would anyone disagree with using that coil? My comment was to "Sounder's" 3.0 ohm comparing of the front mount coils ability to dissipate heat, of 58 watts, to that of a "proven" round coil that dissipates 70 watts. (Worst Case).

JMHO

I'm trying to locate my GM balalst resistor and coil cross reference chart. All the coils and ballast resistor combo's on that chart range from a total primary resistance value of 2.8 - 3.2 ohms.. with the vast majority of them setting right at 3 ohms.

Are you taking into account duty cycle?

Also.. your remark about jeeps?.. I recall these engines being evaluated for a military jeep evaluation.

As for the thermal advantage.. at what point do you start sacrificing 'reliable' starts and running in adverse conditions.. like lowered voltage due to worn and dirty connections.. etc.

For reference.. that last 12v square coil I gutted was potted solid to the top.. looked like epoxy potting. Note.. this was a plastic encased coil.. not a metal can encased one...

Soundguy

Soundguy

Take yer cap off and letter dry-out. Blow on it, use WD-40. (WD stands for water dispersal, 40th formula tried)

Even though you claim you've replaced the squarecan coil, everything you've listed STILL points to a BAD COIL. (they've been known to be bad right from the dealer)

Reset yer points gap to 0.018 instead of 0.015. This will slow-down the heating of the coil guttz and maybe keep you running longer than 1/2hr..... ...Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister