Ford 9N ignition and wiring

I have a 6 v. pos. ground system but I also have a generator with three posts (and wires) and a voltage regulator instead of a "cutout". Is this a common occurance to have this "conversion" on a 9N?

Second question.....
I purchased a new Pertronix electronic ignition system for my tractor. I removed the old style points, condenser, etc. and installed this new system and the tractor ran fine for a few hours. Then, all of a sudden, I had no spark, as mentioned above. I have removed the electronic system and reinstalled the points system but to no avail, still no spark. By the way, the tractor ran previously with the points installed before the change.
I have had the coil checked at work and it checked out at 9.85 henrys and 2 rings. I am wondering what my next move should be. I expect the warranty replacement electronic system back in about a week but I would like to get the tractor running with the points installed also.

Any and all advice/comments welcome.

Thanks,
Drew McLendon

9.85 henrys and 2 rings..... ...thats impressive (grin) Usually, its 7000-ohms for secondary and less than 1-ohm for the primary. And NO, I don't know the "conversion factors" to convert Henry's to Ohms.

As for why you can't back-date yer present Pertronix converted ignition system to run on ignition points? Bettcha ya fergott that you had to "modify" yer squarecan frontmount distributor wiring so the electronic guttz would work. You just can't power-up the electronics thru the top-terminal of the squarecan ignition coil. Re-read yer Pertronix instruction sheets for "clues" a how to re-wire yer ignition coil so it will work with ignition points..... ...respectfully, Dell

I left the old wire fom the ignition switch to the top of the coil intact when I did the conversion and thus I reused it to try and convert back to the antiquated points system. I completly removed to distributor and accessories from the tractor, reassembled them on the bench and tested with a multimeter..... from the brass screw on top of the dist. that the pigtail of the coil touches, I have continuity when the points are closed and I have an open circuit when the points are open.
I have approx. 7400 ohms on the secondary and less than 1 ohm on the primary for the coil.
The wire that I am connecting to the top of the coil shows an open cicuit to the neg. post of the battery when the ignition switch is off and 0.00 ohms when the switch is on.
With the dist. installed, I have done approx the same checks from the top brass screw to the frame of the tractor. 0.00 ohms and then after turning the engine slightly, I have an open cicuit when the points are open. All the plugs are out so the engine has no real load on it so it is turning fast enough to produce spark. I mention this because the last time I had a problem, that was it, not enough speed to do anything.

Anyway,what the h*ll is going on?..... any clues?

Also, I either have original plug wires (doubtful) or a very dedicated (read patient) person installed them... they each enter an opening in a steel tube that runs across the top of the engine and they all come out the end near the fan just above the dist. very tight fit, very time consuming to install!

Once again, I can't think of what to do to get spark.... the plugs are new, dist. cap, rotor and coil are new.... points are not that old, they look new....

Any help and suggestions appreaciated.

any thoughts on converting to 12 volt neg. ground?

Thanks again,
Drew

In any case.. should be easy to track down the spark issue.. power tot he coil.. ensure points open and close ( voltage on the coil changes from bat volts when open to 3ish when closed ).. rotor and cap in plave.. and you should have spark..super easy system.

Soundguy