oil change on an 8N Ford 1952

Thanks for the info. I swear I just don't remember a screen but there have been several hands exchanged on this N before I got it. I will look for sure next time (if I remember that is!)

John

I have owned my 49 8N for 27+ years so maybe I can help you out as others here have helped me out at times.

The oil pick-up tube does not come out with the big oil plug underneith the oil pan, only a filter screen comes out with it (along with the old oil). In terms of breaking it loose, you may have to get a long pipe extention on your cresent rench for leverage. It should break loose with the right persuation. (since it is up-side down, make sure you are turning it in the right direction.)

If you want to change the filter, simply loosen the bolt in the top of the filter housing, remove the top, (there is a spring just under that bolt), and there should be a wire handle to get a hold of the filter and pull it out (like a bucket handle). It is rather tight getting it out but it will come. There is also a small plug in the bottom of the oil filter housing you can remove and drain all the oil out there. Reverse the proceedure to put the new filter back in and put the new rubber gasket in the filter top and tighten it back down. HTH (Hope this helps) Rick H. Ga.

You need a 5 gallon pail minimum to drain the hyd/tranny/diffy oil. To drain the crankcase oil.. a couple gallon pail is fine for the 6ish qts.

If a crescent wrench wount bit the drain plug.. use vice grips or a pipe wrench. If that fails.. try using a cold chissle and hamer to tap the plug out.. that is.. position the chissle on the edge of a flat and tap it inthe direction the plug needs to turn to come out.. this usually destroys the plug.. but often extracts hard to remove plugs.

Once you get it loose, if it isn't too buggered up you should be able to repair the flats on the plug with a file.. or simply replace it. The oil pickup tube doesn't come out with the plug.. only a screen/wire bail which goes around the pickup tube.

If this screen filter is torn or missing, feel around inside the oil pan for it.. and at very least .. replace it. TSC has that plug and screen for under 10 bucks..

If the screen is good.. check the gasket. A new paper or leather gasket may be needed.. I cut one out of gasket paper.. though any flat cardboard box like a shoe box or cerial box will work too.

Drain the oil. Then get an appropriate filet.. ( fram C3 or C3P.. or NAPA 1010Gold.. etc ).

Remove the long bolt in the oil cannister. Might need to tap the edge up with a small tack hammer to unseat it. Some have to remove the bolts in the oil filter canister so they can get the lines to flex about a quarter inch or so to pull the old filter. Sop up the old oil in the canister.. or use the drain plug if the canister has one ( some do ) Install the new filter. Don't have to prefill with oil, as this is the oil return line.. but if it floats your boat.. add some oil.

Main crankcase oil is added at the breather ont he side of the engine just forward of the oil cannister. Remember to get that drain plug back in first!

This is also a good time to remove the oil cup on your air filter.. dump the old oil.. hose the dirt out of the cup.. clean it with your favorite solvent ( kero / diesel / mineral spirits / paint thinner/ then refill with oil to the line and reinstall the oil cup.

If it was empty or exceptionally gunked up.. consider pulling the metalif filter media out for a soak in your favorite solvent, air dry, and then reinstall.

Soundguy

While I'm not a fan of 10w30.. It may do. I'm not sure if 30w is the winter recomendation for a straight weight of oil or not.. havfta check the manual.

Soundguy