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#3 Cylinder not Working
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Danny in CO

09-19-2000 07:24:26

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I have a problem with my #3 cylinder in my '48 8N. I pulled the plugs on all cyliners. #3 plug was covered with crud, not firing.

I checked dry compression: #1 90#, #2 90#, #3 85#, #4 90#. Didn't change with a wet test

Put new plugs and wires on. Pulling the wire off #3 plug has no effect. Spark at #3 is OK

I tried running automatic transmission fluid through the carb to see if that would help. It seems to have helped a little.

It seems that I'm not getting any power out of #3 even though it has compression and spark.

Maybe I'm not getting fuel into #3 because of bad valve or bad tappet or bad cam??

Occasionally it seems to fire and a puff of smoke comes out the exhaust.

Thanks in advance for any help!

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Jess 9N202584

09-20-2000 01:32:25

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 Re: #3 Cylinder not Working - Take 2 in reply to Danny in CO, 09-19-2000 07:24:26  
Danny- You might try an old-timers diagnostic test... the playing card on the tailpipe. Hold a card, or a piece of thin cardboard across the end of the pipe. You should always have pressure at the pipe. If the playing card slaps the end of the tailpipe, you have an exaust valve leaking. It may not be REAL bad, see'ins how you're only down 5 psi on the compression gage. At least it will eliminate a leaking valve. Hope this helps, and let us know.. Jess

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Dell WA)

09-19-2000 07:53:20

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 Re: #3 Cylinder not Working - Take 2 in reply to Danny in CO, 09-19-2000 07:24:26  
Danny.......I assume you put a brand new sparkplug in #3? If you just cleaned it, ya' ken still have a bad plug. Compression not great, not bad eather. Ol' N's will run on just about anything but I like "Marvel Mystery Oil" in the oil for cleaning sticky valves and rings as ATF in the carb will just burn out the exhaust......Dell

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09-19-2000 17:03:34

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 Re: Re: #3 Cylinder not Working - Take 2 in reply to Dell WA), 09-19-2000 07:53:20  
OK Danny, let me jump back in here after getting back on line after my isp was down a day. If your wet- dry compression test shows about the same and knowing you should get some power out of that cylinder do not overlook the possibility of a broken valve spring. Compression will appear ok during cranking but when the engine is running the valve may not be closing tight enough or fast enough. I had one a while back that had that problem. Did not find it 'till I pulled the valve cover off. Of course, I can't hear very well. My son said he thought he had heard the valves making a noise. fwiw, ray

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Danny in CO

09-19-2000 07:59:03

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 Re: Re: #3 Cylinder not Working - Take 2 in reply to Dell WA), 09-19-2000 07:53:20  
Yes - New plugs and new wires all around. I'll try the "Marvel Mystery Oil"!

My 8N is supossed to have the older non-adjustable tappets (unless someone replaced them along the way). Is it common for a cam lob to round out or a tappet to wear down?

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Dell (WA)

09-19-2000 08:14:05

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 Re: Re: Re: #3 Cylinder not Working - Take 2 in reply to Danny in CO, 09-19-2000 07:59:03  
Danny......N-Engines are pretty bullet proof.

with your compression on #3, your still getting valve closure, you may not begetting full valve lift.

Your still gonna need to do a "wet" compression test to more fully diagnose.

Even new sparkplugs can be bad, swap with #2

Oh yeah, "new wires" check your Firing order is 1,2,4,3. They will start and run 1,3,4,2, distributor rotation is CCW.......Dell

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Danny in CO

09-19-2000 08:17:48

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 Re: Re: Re: Re: #3 Cylinder not Working - Take 2 in reply to Dell (WA), 09-19-2000 08:14:05  
Wet compression didn't make much difference in compression on any cylinder. Maybe 1-2 pounds.

I'll swap #2 and #3 plugs and recheck firing order.


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