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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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Rod Babbit Bearings

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John D From Ill

01-10-2008 17:24:57




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New to this forum. Restoring model A with babitt lined bearings. There are no bearing inserts but shims to tighten or loosen rod bearings. There is some minor pitting that can be felt with finger nail. I plan on using plasti gauge to measure wear but not sure what is acceptable. No scoring or scratches. Any suggestions would be appreciated and thanks in advance. John




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johns48jdb

01-11-2008 05:11:05




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 Re: Rod Babbit Bearings in reply to John D From Illinois, 01-10-2008 17:24:57  
just curious. would you guys not recommend that he put in new rods with inserts instead of the babbit rods? probably not without a lot of checking the crank for correct size first huh? i would think he needed to check the rod for roundness to start with.



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Mike M

01-11-2008 05:43:30




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 Re: Rod Babbit Bearings in reply to johns48jdb, 01-11-2008 05:11:05  
The adjustable babbit rods are ALOT more forgiving. The insert type need everything to be right on spec.



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P Browning

01-11-2008 06:00:28




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 Re: Rod Babbit Bearings in reply to Mike M, 01-11-2008 05:43:30  
Right on! If any person wants to learn some quick bearing technology, look up the history of the Babbitt Bearing, and of Isaac Babbitt to find out what a humongous contribution this bearing turned out to be and remains being to the rail industry. As long as the capability to renew a bearing in its Babbitted form, it will be my bearing of choice.

The concept is soft metal linings contained in harder and stronger shells. The soft metal against a hard backing is able to retain much plasticity permitting the bearing to adjust itself to the contour of the shaft and to slight variations in alignment. Lack of this feature resulted in many a "hot box" in the early railroading days. (PatB)

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P Browning

01-10-2008 22:18:58




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 Re: Rod Babbit Bearings in reply to John D From Illinois, 01-10-2008 17:24:57  
John (and CalJim) -- Plastigage is difficult but not impossible for use on a Deere engine – lack of space. I would think the issue here, however, is that to use plastigage for a bearing not freshly machined isn’t a good idea. The slightest “out-of-roundness” can bring about a false reading. The Trial & Error method, on the other hand, is foolproof in this case, and will work equally well with newly machine bearings. Specifically - - -

TRIAL & ERROR METHOD -- During reassembly, adjust connecting rod bearing running clearance to a value from 0.001 to 0.003 inch. Adjustment is by use of shims in attaching connecting rods to the crankshaft. Remove all the shims (one rod at a time) and measure the top and bottom stacks with a micrometer to ensure they are equal to start with. The thin shims are 0.003 inch thick. Install connecting rod with shim stacks and torque. If there is no binding or halting in crank rotation, remove 1 shim (top and bottom) and repeat until binding occurs. If there is binding, add 1 shim (top and bottom) and repeat. If it spins freely, you are good to go! NOTE: This trial and error series is much easier to perform “on the bench”, prior to installing the crankshaft and the rod & pistons units into the main case. (PatB)

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CalJim

01-10-2008 22:02:32




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 Re: Rod Babbit Bearings in reply to John D From Illinois, 01-10-2008 17:24:57  
Mike M I'm not sure what you mean about not being able to use plastigauge. Your method of turning the crank sounds pretty easy. But what about putting plastigauge on the crank under a rod cap? CalJim



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Mike M

01-11-2008 04:14:40




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 Re: Rod Babbit Bearings in reply to CalJim, 01-10-2008 22:02:32  
Most but not all of these 2 cylinders are pretty tight quarters in that crankcase. It's hard to get a torque wrench on both the upper and lower rod nuts without having to rotate the crank a little.



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Mike M

01-10-2008 18:38:18




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 Re: Rod Babbit Bearings in reply to John D From Illinois, 01-10-2008 17:24:57  
As long as there is some babbit left on them and there are no flaked out spots that go to the outside edge that will cause loss of oil pressure just adjust them up and run them. Plasti gage is of little use here because you can't hardly hold the rods in one spot while tightening and you have shims to adjust it so it doesn't matter. Measure the shim packs top and bottom even them up. Put back together minus one shim top and bottom these should only be .003" and tighten them up. Try to turn the crank as you tighten if crank gets tight before the nuts are STOP and add one shim top and bottom and your done. It's that simple.

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