John Deere Paints

I just want to make sure that I understand all of the archived posts that I have found and read. PPG hardeners seem to work well with John Deere brand Classic Green & the yellow and JD thinner. Specifically what line of PPG hardeners (OMNI, etc) is good and then what is the ratio? I know that this is the millionth time that this has come up but I want to make sure that I have it right. There is a link to the primed chassis.
Thanks

Omni AE
MH101

Thanks

To add a bit of history here, any of you who remember Clooney, one of his quotes, was "lately I have been using Autobody Master Synthetic #8132 hardener but have used NAPA #8010 in the past I can't see any difference. You want to make sure the hardener can says "synthetic" or all you are buying is real expensive reducer. Using the wrong hardener will probably give you a little better gloss because it isn't doing anything but acting as a reducer & you can get the same thing by just adding extra reducer in the same amount. I have found that the gloss factor is actually just slightly better without hardener but not enough to not use hardener," (reference YT thread url >Link

So, among my questions are: Do you get a hard finish, along with reduced drying times using the Omni product with JD Synthetic Paint? The correct hardener SHOULD speed up the cure times along with making the finish more resistant to scratching and bubbling up from fuel. And...have you ever had the opportunity to apply a non-synthetic finish such as acrylic enamel and compared the two finishes? When I apply AE with the correct reducer and hardeners, the finish flashes pretty fast between coats (like twenty minutes for re-coat), and after multiple coats, those parts are dry enough to handle in less than two hours and too hard to recoat without scuffing with light grit paper or Scotch-Brite.

You really could be just using an incompatible hardener that, while not really ruining the paint chemistry, is of no improvement either. So, as Clooney said, you really could be using hardener as an expensive reducer, and that's what I want to avoid.

Frank

Thanks for the actual answers and not just comments like the paint & bodywork forum. This was exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks again

As alluded to in Frank's post, there is danger in working with these compounds --you may find a small amount of research a very good health insurance policy! Here is an excerpt from Chapter 2 of the JD-H Restoration Guide, 2nd Edition. If you desire more, send me an e-mail for the Chapter 9. (PatB)
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HARDENERS IN BOTH PRIMER & PAINT COATS -- Frequently, successive coats of both primer and paint are applied to sheet metal parts with very little time between applications. And so it is important that when using paint additives like hardeners, to use hardener in primer coats as well. The base formulation of the various coatings being applied must be similar and compatible!

Principal problems resulting from not using these additives in the primer coats, and then rapidly applying "treated paints" are either peeling away (lifting) of both existing and new coats, or a paint wrinkle -- the latter manifesting itself as a sort of withering of the finish. With the tendency for lift, a slight glancing blow to the finish coat will easily bring away a void in your finish paint coat; the result of a part of the undercoat simply torn away! It wasn't cured. It is very disappointing indeed when a beautifully painted tractor hood is suddenly beset with such a fault! See Chapter 9.

There is the age-old discussion among painting gurus whether to use (or not use) hardeners in paint. Proponents of hardeners have found they get a higher gloss with a paint additive, and so they like it! This is reason enough! WARNING! Just be prepared for the consequences of ignorance if you choose to use hardeners without first protecting yourself against compounds hazardous to your health. To be advised, see Chapter 9 (Paint) containing expanded discussion on this topic.

• Restoration Site, JD-H

Go to NAPA and ask for a hardener that is compatible with Synthol or Synthetic enamels. "Wet Look" brand is one you can often find. Remember, use proper precautions because any hardener will contain isocyanates which can cause all manner of allergic reactions and breathing disorders, and if you live long enough, a good case of lung cancer, likely preceeded by emphysema.

As to mixing ratio, it will be on the can, typically a pint to a gallon (in other words 8:1). Add another :1 in reducer to start with, and judge for good flow, and no sags. Light coats are best, but this isn't a "how to paint" answer, just a "how to mix paint" response.

Frank