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It may be as simple as poking a bit of trash plugging up the oil return hole directly under the right main bearing. The only seal in there is a spiral groove on the clutch operating sleeve that returns excessive oil to the transmission input shaft gear cover (that big lump of cast iron that the clutch sticks out of). From inside there, right main bearing oil is supposed to drain back thru a hole about the size of your finger, by gravity alone, back into the crankcase, but if it's plugged by a wasp nest, the oil will back up in there until it flows out the clutch and by the gallon especially when going downhill. Since your symptoms are almost exactly the above, I'm just assuming this is your problem. The easiest way to unplug the hole is from the inside of the crankcase. But to be sure the plug gets fully removed you probably better plan on pulling the clutch and gear cover. The chances of you pulling the plug thru the hole just under the right main bearing from inside the crankcase is somewhat doubtful at best, but it sure would be the easier fix. On the other hand, if you don't allow the clutch to turn while idling, then the oil gets slung into the back side of that gear case by the crank and doesn't get drawn up to the drain hole in order to flow back into the engine. If your oil was cold and that gear case was full and then you moved it (especially downhill), then all that cold oil might not have been able to drain away fast enough thru that finger sized hole as the now moving clutch gear would gather that gear case oil in huge volumes, the colder, the more oil it would try to pack in behind the clutch area. So you may not need to do a thing but start letting the clutch drum roll while the engine idles in neutral from now on.
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