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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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John Deere 140 Wire Diagram

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Brian Ramsbey

08-30-2004 09:44:21




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I have this 1968 serial number 4481 tractor that I bought over 10 years ago and has served me well until the electric PTO shorted and smoked most of the wireing of the tractor. I got a new pto clutch and have been rewiring (without a schmatic) by brail. I got everthing working except, the points get orange hot after two or three cranks and the spring becomes unsprung and then just stay open. Obviously something is not right but I am lost and cannot afford to just keep buying points all the time to experiment. If any one has thing that might help, it has a 8 ro 10 HP Kolher engine with the point on the left side and has a pin coming out the open and close them. Any information would help. I have the manual but for some reason the under 10000 serial wire diagram is just vague blocks and not specifics. No help what so ever.....

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Bob

08-30-2004 21:14:17




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 Re: John Deere 140 Wire Diagram in reply to Brian Ramsbey, 08-30-2004 09:44:21  
A 140 of that serial number should have magneto ignition, an there should be no connection between the 12 Volt electrical system and the ignition system, except a wire from the points to the ignition switch, that gets shorted to ground when the switch is turned off, to "kill" the spark, and thus the engine.

Either you have this "kill" wire connected to the wrong post on the ignition switch, or you have the wrong ignition switch (one designed for a LATER tractor with 12 Volt powered ignition). The other possibility is that a burned "hot" 12 Volt wire in the harness is shorted to the ignition "kill" wire. If 12 Volts is being applied to the points, and to the magneto coil, the magneto coil is almost certainly "toast".

The CORRECT part number for the ignition switch on a 140 below S.N. 10,001 is AM102543. All the 140's prior to this serial number were originally magneto-ignition equipped.

Since these engines are magneto ignition, if the coil, points, and condensor are good, it should run for testing purposes with NO electrical connections to the tractor chassis. Of course, it wouldn't stop with the key, though!

I have a shop manual for these tractors, and, if memory serves, the info you need IS in there. I'll look tomorrow.

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