Cold Galvanize Mower Deck and/or Attach Zinc Anode

As an aside, has anyone had their deck sprayed by a Linex dealer? If so, what was the cost? Did it hold up (knicks/chips etc.) in operation?

If the deck warrants recoating next season I'll sure take a look at POR 15.

And thanks for the heads up on the stuff being so "sticky"

Beaux

I applied the Cold Galvanize paint and went over it with rubber undercoating. I also added a couple of zinc anodes. I don't expect the undercoating to hold up very long but I wanted to try it anyway.

I'll check back every couple of days to see if that web site becomes available.

Thanks,
Beaux

If this mower deck is actively used for mowing, I have yet to see a coating that will stand up. (Powdercoating may endure, but I have no experience.)

The "juices" from the grass and fertilizer will rust a steel deck. The dirt and sand from the soil acts to "sand-blast" any coating.

The best defense, IMHO, is to wash the mower deck (top & bottom) after each use, and allow it to dry before putting it away. ....Removing the grass clippings from underneath is easier if washed immediately after use.

Care should be taken when cleaning the top side of the mower deck. Some idler pulleys with unsealed bearings do not like to bathe.

I have seen unpainted steel decks last MANY years, if washing is done conscientiously. Conversely, a lot of fertilizer, or mowing while the grass is wet, will accelerate rust-through if it doesn't get washed frequently.

This accumulation on the underside will cause aluminum/magnesum/alloy decks to corrode as well, if not cared for.

.....Just my two cents!

The deck I'm currently working on belonged to a buddy that let it sit up for a couple years. I'm trying to get it back into shape and was hoping to come up with a reliable rust inhibiting method.

Normally I try to clean my deck after each use and after hosing it off I use either my leaf blower or shop compressor to air dry it quickly. I was hoping that someone had come up with a method that might eliminate this bit of maintenance.

I guess the manufacturers would have found and offered a "corrosion proof" deck a long time ago if it were a viable, economical option.

You didn't mention the zinc anode method in your reply. Have you any experience with that technique?

Thanks again,
Beaux

I'm thinking the anode route would probably work better as the cold galvanize zinc is sprayed on much like paint and it's ability to adhere in such a hostile environment is doubtful in my opinion but if some one has had success then I'd probably do it.

Attaching the anode seems much simpler but I'm not sure exactly how much surface area would be covered through the "galvanic reaction" process. Guess I need more info on how that works. I might possibly need more than one anode.

I've spent quite a bit of time cleaning the deck and removing the rust and I'd hate to have to do it all over again if I choose the wrong technique for rust prevention.

Thanks again,
Beaux