860 trans shifter brake shoe pins

On the shifter, I've backed off the acorn nut & applied PB & heat & leverage, but no go. I'm afraid to apply too much pressure for fear of damaging something on the underside of the cover.

On the brake shoe pins, I applied heat & PB, then tried to drive them out from the inboard side of the backing plate.

Jeff

Welcome to the world of hundred series brakes.

It is difficult to remove brake pins from hundred series brakes when they have rusted because they rust to the bushing inside the hole in the brake shoe and there is no way to properly back up the bushing for impact effort to be effective. Additionally, with the brake shoe in place it is difficult to get proper heat to the bushing where heat needs to be applied.

Often they can be removed by heating the bushing.

If not, I have sometimes cut the brake shoes off with a torch in order to properly heat the bushings. Works every time.

Once removed, buy new pins as well as clips and use anti sieze on the pins so that they will be easily removable ten years from now.

Dean

Jeff

I doubt that there is any plug in the backing plate as none was supplied originally. What you see is likely the end of the pin.

Heating the pin from the inside and/or heating around the brake shoe is ineffective on badly siezed pins unless you have lots of patience.

You need to apply heat to the bushing and you will only be able to get heat to limited areas of it with the brake shoe in place. It is unlikely that you will be able to turn the pin/bushing in order to heat circumferentially unless you cut the brake shoe away.

It's worth a try but I have found situations where its easier (necessary?) to cut the shoe away in order to get sufficient heat to the bushing so as to drive the pin out the back without means of properly backing up the pin support plate.

These days when all of the replacement shoes come from China (yes, including CNH shoes) there is nothing to loose as there is no core charge for shoes.

Dean

What way are you trying to drive the pins. Toward the backing plate or away????? ??
If you will dig in the archives you will find where we talked about this before. I even think it has pictures attached. You need to drill a hole in the backing plate; drive the pin out the back; and then install a rubber plug in the hole.
Only other way is to take the backing plate off and that is a lot of work cause you got to take the axle out for that.

The brake pins are made to be driven out away from the tractor. There is even a small ledge on the pin to stop them from going to far in. Most on this board have found that driving them out from the back is very hard if not imposiable.

When I did my brakes (and others here have had simular results) I found it easier to heat up the pins and wack them real hard shearing off the ledge and driving the pin toward the tractor.
You may be able to get them out or just move them enough to get the shoes off.

If that does not work for you then you may want to try drilling a hole in the backing plate to allow for access to hit the pin and drive them out the correct way; then plug the hole with a rubber plug.

The "drilling the backplate" has me confused. There is a head showing on the backside of my backplate...I just assumed it was the other end of the pin. That's what I've been pounding on w/ no luck. Your description sounds like the pin does not normally go thru the plate, so maybe I've been pounding on a cap of some kind.

I'll report back after closer inspection.....

Jeff

Jeff