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850 timimg

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Air Force One

12-19-2007 09:20:33




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No timing light to time my 850 ford. whats the best way to get close, and also gapping my points to get them close? thanks as always..Paul




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old

12-19-2007 10:49:38




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to Air Force One, 12-19-2007 09:20:33  
I never use a timing light to time engines any more. What I do it set the trottle at say half way and then, thats with the engine running. I then turn the distubutor a little bit forward and back to the point I get max RPM. Shut the engine down and make sure it starts easy and doesn't have trouble turning over. Some times if to far advanced the starter will have trouble turning it over if you have that problem back it off just a tad. I then go work it and adjust it for max power and easy starts. I've been doing timing that way for 30 plus years and have some very easy to start engines and have good power also. Also Glen is correct on the point gap and a feeler gauge will cost less then $5 and well worth owning

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GlenIdaho

12-19-2007 09:42:56




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to Air Force One, 12-19-2007 09:20:33  
Paul; here's some info on static timing your 850 courtesy of contributor "Dean".

With regards to your points they are to be set at .024 to .026 (per manual). Some will set them at .015 or .016. A feeler guage is inexpensive and easy to obtain.

"Static timing is how one times an engine without a timing light. It works well if your distributor is not badly worn. Here's how to do it:

After setting the points, crank the engine over until the rotor points to the #1 plug wire. Now turn the engine using the fan or a screw driver on the ring gear until the timing pointer is aligned with the 4 degree BTDC mark.

Remove the #1 plug wire from the plug and connect it to another spark plug so that you can see when it sparks. Lay the spark plug on a metal engine component so that it is grounded.

Loosen the distributor and turn the ignition on. Turn the distributor clockwise a few degrees until the points close. You can tell when the points close by watching the ammeter. Slowly turn the distributor back counter clockwise until the plug sparks and tighten the distributor making sure not to allow it to move.

Your engine should now be timed within a degree or so of what you can do with a GOOD timing light."

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Air Force One

12-19-2007 11:31:59




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to GlenIdaho, 12-19-2007 09:42:56  
*also need some clarification on this you wrote below...thanks!...Not sure what you mean by timing pointer and where will I find the BTDC mark?

until the timing pointer is aligned with the 4 degree BTDC mark.



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Air Force One

12-19-2007 11:29:34




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to GlenIdaho, 12-19-2007 09:42:56  
Now sestting the points...do I use the feeler gauge clearance when they are closed, or when the points are open at the widest point? Its been awhile since I have did this..



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awtx

12-19-2007 12:02:36




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to Air Force One, 12-19-2007 11:29:34  
The timing marks are stamped into the forward edge of the flywheel and they are visible through a hole in the engine block on the right rear side of the engine. There was a small sheet metal plate that covered the hole from the factory but many owners removed it permanently. You set the point gap with the points at their open position- the rubbing block on the points will be at the top of one of the distributor lobes.

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Air Force One

12-19-2007 14:04:46




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to awtx, 12-19-2007 12:02:36  
starting to make sense now. It now needs a really clean jet wash, then engine cleaner to get all the leaves, dirt, etc off it so I can get to this...thanks for your reply!



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Dean

12-19-2007 14:39:36




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to Air Force One, 12-19-2007 14:04:46  
AF:

The technique above works great. I never bother to get out my timing light anymore unless I an diagnosing advance issues.

I sometimes wrap a large screwdriver or wooden dowl with a rag soaked in gasoline and lightly place it against the flywheel through the timing mark hole with the engine idling in order to clean the marks.

Once you find them, do yourself a favor and mark the 4 degree BTDC mark with a white touch-up paint marker or tire crayon to make timing it easier the next time.

Dean

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Air Force One

12-19-2007 15:54:56




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to Dean, 12-19-2007 14:39:36  
The flywheel hole...does it have a pivot cover held by a bolt? I found it on the right side, near the rear as other post told me about it. Is this the timing hole cover (flywheel cover)...I say it a thousand times....girls kept me from learning all this stuff....since I was in that age frame....but my dad always said "come here and learn this..I wont always be around"...boy I wish I would have listened!" thanks for all the great posters! Paul in NW Fla

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Dean

12-19-2007 16:37:34




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to Air Force One, 12-19-2007 15:54:56  
Yes. The timing mark inspection hole is on the right side of the engine at the rear beneath the hydraulic pump. It is covered with a sheet metal cover held in place with a single bolt unless the cover and bolt are missing.

Dean



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Air Force One

12-19-2007 16:01:50




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to Air Force One, 12-19-2007 15:54:56  
It seems to me there are three ways to time a engine. Is it possible that an engine really never gets out of time? Last time I just changed the points, condensor, and rotor. #2. My dad converted to 12 volts. I cannot find anywhere where he used a resistor. The coil says "External Resistor required" I got it from Advance Auto once the other one quit. It was 6 volt. New one is 12 volt. Should I get the NAPA 12 coil that has internal resistor?

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GlenIdaho

12-19-2007 16:40:22




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to Air Force One, 12-19-2007 16:01:50  
Paul;

Sounds like you found it. Loosen the bolt and spin the cover out of the way. You should see the flywheel.

As far as an engine getting out of time, it happens when parts are badly worn or broken, retaining bolts loosen, or when we mess with it and or remove the distributor.

I would go for the coil with an internal resistor.



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GlenIdaho

12-19-2007 16:54:58




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to GlenIdaho, 12-19-2007 16:40:22  
Paul; Let me step back a little on the previous post. Does your new 12 volt coil say it does not need a resistor? Most have internal resistance built in and you don't need the external. Check out your new coil. Here is the Napa part number for a coil that will work. NAPA Part No. IC-14SB. A bout $15.00.

As a suggestion, learn to do searches of the archives. There is a lot of good info stored and most likely any problem you have you will find has already been discussed. It's a great source for learning about your tractor. Also, buy a good shop manual and parts catalog.

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Air Force One

12-20-2007 02:42:51




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 Re: 850 timimg in reply to GlenIdaho, 12-19-2007 16:54:58  
Thanks Glen....my 850 has been in my barn for awhile...In/out of Afghanistan prevents any long term worktime on it, but my day is coming fast! Paul



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