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860 rear engine seal leak!

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John in MS.

04-15-2007 16:42:44




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I have an 860 that I rebuilt a couple of years ago. In the re-build I used the neopreame seal in the rear seal. The crank did show a little wear in the seal area. I have had a leak since then and now hear that a rope seal may have been a better choice. Can I replace the seal with the rope seal by just dropping the pan or will the tractor have to be split? Really don't have time for the split right now. Thanks for any advice.

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John in MS.

04-16-2007 11:13:54




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 Re: 860 rear engine seal leak! update in reply to John in MS., 04-15-2007 16:42:44  
Just dropped the pan and had the old seal out in about 30 min. On my way now to town and pick up the sneakey pete and a new rope seal and give it a try. I understand that it would be better to have the crank out, and the new rope seal should be formed into place but I am pushed for time right now.....deploying to Iraq soon for the second time and trying to get this fixed so son-in law can keep the grass cut.

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GlenIdaho

04-16-2007 19:23:06




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 Re: 860 rear engine seal leak! update in reply to John in MS., 04-16-2007 11:13:54  
John; Thanks for what you and your fellow soldiers are doing for us. Keep your head down.

Glen



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John in MS.

04-16-2007 07:08:19




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 Re: 860 rear engine seal leak! in reply to John in MS., 04-15-2007 16:42:44  
Thanks for the help guys. I have a neoprene seal in there now. I am thinking it would not be too hard to get out, any thoughts on this??



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jra

04-15-2007 20:35:07




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 Re: 860 rear engine seal leak! in reply to John in MS., 04-15-2007 16:42:44  
You really need to take crank out, the rope seal has to be formed, pushed down in the grove it goes in.I tried to remove an old rope seal with a sneaky Pete with crank still in and it didn't work very well.



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GlenIdaho

04-16-2007 06:07:31




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 Re: 860 rear engine seal leak! in reply to jra, 04-15-2007 20:35:07  
I agree with jra, getting one out is very difficult, but putting one back in may be easier with patience and care. Taking the crank out means splitting the tractor. It's up to you, but I'd say it's worth a shot if you don't want to split the tractor.



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jra

04-15-2007 20:35:01




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 Re: 860 rear engine seal leak! in reply to John in MS., 04-15-2007 16:42:44  
You really need to take crank out, the rope seal has to be formed, pushed down in the grove it goes in.I tried to remove an old rope seal with a sneaky Pete with crank still in and it didn't work very well.



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John in MS.

04-15-2007 19:10:36




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 Re: 860 rear engine seal leak! in reply to John in MS., 04-15-2007 16:42:44  
Glen, thanks for the reply. I thought I remembered seeing something like that on this site but so far haven't found it. I will continue to look and may check with my local NAPPA store tomorrow.



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GlenIdaho

04-15-2007 18:47:15




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 Re: 860 rear engine seal leak! in reply to John in MS., 04-15-2007 16:42:44  
John; Although I have not done this I have read that it can be done. There is a tool called a "Sneaky Pete" that you can get from an auto parts store such as Napa. Once the neoprene seal is out and the bearing caps loosened you use the cable in the kit and snake it around the journal into the seal seat. There is a means attaching the new seal to the cable and you pull it through. The problem is making sure the rope seal is seated into the groove in the block. The bearing cap is remove completely to put a new rope seal in it. Patience and care is the key so that you don't destroy the rope seal. Do the wedge seals at the same time. Also put a very small amount of silicone at the corners of the block where the bearing cap meets. Check out the archives of this site for more info. Buy a Ford Shop manual also.

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