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Lets see if we can walk you through this. If you bought a tractor conversion kit you have a 3 wire alternator. Trust me!!!!! The 1 wire alternator cost all most as much as you paid for the whole kit. The 3 wire will work as a 1 wire but you have to rev the motor to get it to charge. This did not present a problem with the car this alternator fits but a tractor has a lower revving motor. Another problem with the set up you are using is the amp gauge moves very little when charging. A tractor just does not have enough energy use (radio; lights; computers; ect.) to require large charging. This is why I recommend replacing the amp gauge with a volt gauge. So you can check with a volt meter at the battery and see if it charges after revving (reads 13.5+ volts) and leave it a 1 wire set up OR you can change it to a 3 wire setup. If you choose to change to a 3 wire setup you need to consider the facts of how this alternator works. Since you do not have a 801 tractor you do not have a dash idiot light which makes this system work. You could get a diode and put in in the wire where the dash light goes or use a car ignition switch.
I like the car ignition switch way better. Read the link below and let me know if you need any more help. Near the bottom you will find a link to wiring diagrams. The car switch diagram is picture #9.
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