860 questions

Thanks, Clip

If your valve is leaking in such a way that you can not shut it off all the way to replace the fuel filter or such you should replace the valve. The valve has a machine fit to allow it to stop the flow. If it will not shut off this machined fit is pitted and there is not much you can do with it.

Now if your valve is leaking fuel around the shut off screw like yours is we can help you. The valve was made not to be serviced. Several of us were talking one day about the fact of the valves leaking. Even if you replaced it with a new one they were made so bad that within a week or two it was leaking also.
Then someone got the idea to try and rebuild this valve. I wish I could remember who so I could give credit where credit is due but I can not. Any way it worked for him so we have all been repairing our valves. Just follow the instructions below and if you need some more help let us know.

This is probably more info than you needed or wanted but it explains the Why/How for others.

Also if your trans is winning in high gears it may be the speed of the gears. 4th and 5th does make a little more noise than the others but not much. I would think if the noise is bad enough for you to ask about it you have a bearing going bad in the trans. The thing I would want to know is what type of oil is in the trans?? Have you changed it lately to make sure it is not contaminated with water??? Is the trans oil level full???

I have 80/90 in the trans and I just checked the level. I have a slow leak that comes from the trans through the bottom of the center housing which I assume is from one of the output shaft seals. I need to split the tractor and replace the seal. The one thing that sticks in my mind is when I bought the tractor I changed all of the fluids and I removed several pieces of metal out of the rear end. The pieces looked like sections of a thin washer/shim/spacer. I looked in the parts break down and didn't see anything like that in the rear end.

Clip

john in la 11-30-2004 02:29:26
66.157.57.126

Rebuild yours and save your money.

Look on the bottom of the valve and you will see a brass drift pin. This pin holds the shut off screw from coming all the way out. You can try prying it out with a knife but that may or may not work.

What I did was to grind the head off the pin so I could see the actual size of the pin. I then drilled out the pin with the correct size drill bit. Once you get the pin out you can back the shut off screw out all the way. You will see a slot on the screw where the pin fits into. There will also be a o-ring on the end of the screw. Replace this o-ring with a new one. Make sure the o-ring is fat enough to protrude out from the screw a little so it can seal. Install the shut off screw back in the valve and put it at about half way from closed to open. This will line up the pin slot with the pin hole. I used a #12 screw in place of the drift pin. You want it long enough that it fits in the shut off screw slot but does not touch the screw. I used washers to adjust the length of the #12 screw.

If it ever starts to leak again you just take out the #12 screw and back the shut off screw out and replace the o-ring again. Total cost is less than $1.00 for the #12 screw and a o-ring.