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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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Changing the rear end fluid (1st time)

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Slideways

01-18-2006 08:26:38




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Is there a writeup online somewhere on how to drain/refill the trans fluid on a TE20? I wasnt sure if there was just one inlet for the hydraulics and rear end and how much i should buy to fill it.

Also, i"ve become kind of lost in all of the discussion about what oil to put in. At work we sell "Ford Mineral Oil SAE 90" in 2gallon jugs. Is that what i need?

Thanks for the help




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dfitch

01-19-2006 04:26:13




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 Re: Changing the rear end fluid (1st time) in reply to Slideways, 01-18-2006 08:26:38  
You will get a pretty good idea of how bad the inside is by looking at the drain plugs after you remove them especially the big one in the center. If you have a large buildup of semihard sludge then set aside a day or 2 just for cleaning. You cannot go wrong using the method outlined by Jeff-oh. His sprayer idea works. Its a bit more of a job but you can get better access to some areas for cleaning by removing the top cover

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Jeff-oh

01-18-2006 10:38:02




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 Re: Changing the rear end fluid (1st time) in reply to Slideways, 01-18-2006 08:26:38  
Sideways,

Yes, the Ford SAE90 is the recommended oil for temps above 50 deg. That said, I use it in S. Ohio year round. When the tractor first starts in the cold the lift is slow and jittery, but after about 5 min. of the PTO turning, and trans mission running it seams to work out fine. You will need 6 gallons of oil. Also, check NAPA's price, ask for PN 65-205. That is a 5-gallon bucket of the same stuff.

There are three drain holes and one filler hole. Note the fill slow at the end comment. As the filler hole is in the front of the case and the dipstick is at the rear. Only fill with four to five gallons, then fill 1 quart at a time with a couple to 5 min. wait between quarts. This gives the fluid some time to level out so that it can be read on the dipstick. The first time I changed my oil I overfilled by more than a gallon, I had oil coming out the axils on the breaks... what a mess.

This is a job you do not want to do too often, so plan it right. Determine all the maintenance that needs to be accomplished while the transmission is drained. (PTO seal, Pump repairs, Hydro leak fixes, axial seals etc) Get the parts and get them done while you can.

Below is the procedure I wrote a couple of years ago.

It has been a while since this was posted. It does work well. I was just at TSC on Sat and their GL-1 oil is not $46.00/5 gal. WOW.

This is the procedure I used to clean my transmission oil housing. You will need to wash out the old fluid. Any remaining fluid will contaminate the new fluid. If you have time in the evenings start to drain the tractor now. She will drip for hours/days.
You should also be prepared to deal with the gallons of fluids you the will gush out of the tractor. Have containers ready to pour the old oil in to take to your auto parts store for recycling.

Do your lift arms drop/leak down quickly? If so prior to draining the fluid pull the right and left side inspection plates. Lift an implement and look to see where the fluid is leaking out of the system as the lift lowers. Then you can repair/replace the required parts without the fluid in the way.

I would also recommend the you replace the PTO seal and O-ring seal if needed at this time and replace the inspection plate gaskets. The inspection plate gaskets are fairly easy to cut yourself if you need to.

Open the drains one at a time to handle the gush of fluid. Once you have gone through all of them open them all up again with a pan under each and let it drip at least over night. Make sure your lift control is in the down position to drain the piston.

You should plan on "Washing/Flushing" out the inside, particularly if you have water in the oil... i.e. if brown/milky. To wash the inside use either kerosene or diesel. (Note: It is generally recommended and I agree: DO NOT operate the tractor with your cleaning fluid in the transmission) I put mine in a garden sprayer and sprayed the insides down. I put the garden sprayer nozzle everywhere I can, up the PTO shaft opening, if you pulled it. Through the Filler hole, through the inspection ports, through each drain plug. I catch the diesel in clean oil pans let it settle then decant the "clean" fluid off the sludge and spray again, and again. Go have a beer and let it drain. I then wipe out the bottom with clean paper towels to get the crud out. (do not use cheap towels here you do not want them falling apart). If your fluid had water in it, the "Milky" oil will continue to appear for a while, I just came back and wiped it out again, and again until gone.

This is a good time to do other maintenance. Grease the fittings, Pull the air filter and clean it.

Be sure to do the diesel flush with good ventilation. The fumes are powerful.

Button her back up with your new seals and fill. Toward the end fill slowly... i.e. quart or 1/2 liter per 5 to 10 minutes, to let it all even out in the sumps. The first time I changed the oil I did not do this and I over filled by a gallon and a half. And because I did not wash out the back that gallon and a half was now water contaminated and useless.

You will be glad you did this when it is done.

Jeff

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Fred Martin

01-18-2006 09:17:36




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 Re: Changing the rear end fluid (1st time) in reply to Slideways, 01-18-2006 08:26:38  
That Ford oil works just fine but in the winter time it can get sluggish when the temperatures get low and the hydraulics will get jumpy and slow. The newer recommended lighter oil will work better in the cold but it will find ways to leak easier than the 90 wt. stuff when the temperatures climb back up. Also, when the pump is somewhat worn I think the heavier oil will keep going when the lighter stuff won"t. If I had my way about it, I would use the light stuff in cold weather and the heavier in the summer months. You"ll need about 3 cans of it as it holds around 6 gallons. Be sure and drain all three places, one under transmission, one near pump and one plug under differential. While drained, it"s a good time to take one of the round side plates off and get your hand down in there and see how much crud is in the bottom of it. Just reach around in the bottom and feel for it around the nooks and crannies. Some of the fellows spray kerosene or diesel fuel in there to flush it out. If no sprayer is available, a parts brush and a coffee can with kerosene will do it, just takes longer. I have taken out old oil and let it set for about a year and all the sediment settled to the bottom and I seriously considered putting the good back in for a second trip. Remove battery cable before working around parts that can turn...should let it drain overnight and finish the next day. Those thin rubber gloves Harbor Freight sells with some masking tape around the cuffs will keep you from getting mung all over your hands. Fred OH

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John (UK)

01-18-2006 12:18:32




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 Re: Changing the rear end fluid (1st time) in reply to Fred Martin, 01-18-2006 09:17:36  
By the newer light oil are you meaning the Multi-grade 15W-30 I mentioned the other day, it is no lighter to look at than the GL1 oil that we have been using, it just doesn't get as thick when cold and it certainly doesn't get runny and thin, it is actually an engine oil so it wont have to act like that in an engine. Maybe you are meaning the Hydraulic oil favoured by some of the newer tractor that is like water, well that should not at any time be used in this tractor as it is too thin for the gearbox and axle as well as the Pump. If you do use the Multi-grade 15W-30 do make sure that the housing has no sludge in there to start with or it will break it up and carry it in suspension in the oil. Over here in UK most TE tractors use the Multi-grade oil in the hydraulics.

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steve19438

01-19-2006 15:33:30




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 Re: Changing the rear end fluid (1st time) in reply to John (UK), 01-18-2006 12:18:32  
"Multi-grade 15W-30 I mentioned the other day,"
i have been reading the "oil" posts of the last few days and i am now more confused than ever! when you mention multi weight oil are you referring to motor oil or is there a multi weight hyd. oil out there?????



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John (UK)

01-21-2006 09:24:46




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 Re: Changing the rear end fluid (1st time) in reply to steve19438, 01-19-2006 15:33:30  
We don't use hydraulic oil as such in these tractors as it has to lube the gearbox and axle too. The oil mentioned Multi-grade 15W-30 is just your ordinary motor oil. If you are not sure just use the GL-1 oil that we have always used.



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Slideways

01-18-2006 13:24:48




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 Re: Changing the rear end fluid (1st time) in reply to John (UK), 01-18-2006 12:18:32  
Ok thanks.. i can get Shell Rotella 15w40 Diesel oil if that is ok too.. My lifts are ok even though they sag down eventually. If i have it raised they wont drop if i stand on them so i'd assume that's still pretty good.

I've never taken these inspection covers off to clean the stuff so are they any gaskets/seals that will be junk and need replacement when i do this? I was unpleasantly suprised when i took my oil filter out to find my pan was all dented and wouldnt seal.

Thanks

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John (UK)

01-18-2006 14:20:39




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 Re: Changing the rear end fluid (1st time) in reply to Slideways, 01-18-2006 13:24:48  
Jeff Oh's excellent list is on this subject post, I didn't see it just now I thought it was further back. You wont go far wrong if you do it as he says. The post next to yours right at the top.



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John (UK)

01-18-2006 14:17:25




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 Re: Changing the rear end fluid (1st time) in reply to Slideways, 01-18-2006 13:24:48  
Looking at Shells site, it looks like Shell Rotella T Multi-grade 15W-40 Multi-grade is the nearest one.
Your Hydraulics should lift 800lbs at the end of the lower links when in good order,if it holds up with a load on but without the Pump running for 5 mins it is ok, the Pump can cope with any loss at that rate of seepage.when new it was expected to hold up 15 mins.The gaskets on the round ports are the only ones that MAY need changing, but you could make them, there is no oil at the back of them unless it is overfull, the only other one you MAY need is the PTO shaft gasket if you decide to pull that out, again you could make one, but the gaskets are all readily obtainable and I have the numbers if you need them. If you look back through the posts on here only a couple of days Jeff Oh has a detailed list of what and how to clean out the rear axle and hydraulics which you may like to read.

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