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Electrical Grounding

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John T

09-17-2007 08:17:17




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ELECTRICAL GROUNDING

Over the years on many many various Tractor Board postings concerning general home n farm AC wiring, I’ve observed a common misunderstanding regarding “grounding” n ground rods etc. which I hope to correct in the interest of safety education and am posting this all over the place.

First of all, it’s the service NEUTRAL that gets bonded to Mother Earth via made grounds like rods driven into the earth or metallic water or gas pipes etc. Out at the electrical pole the Neutrals (if a Y service) on the high voltage primary side are tied to Mother Earth,,,,, the Neutrals on the low voltage (120/240) secondary side of the transformer also get bonded to Mother Earth,,,,, ,,,and finally at the electrical service entrance meter base or the main service entrance panelboard or even up on the riser, its again the Neutral that gets tied to Mother Earth. That’s to keep the services n the grid etc. at one single common voltage reference which Mother Earth provides, albeit not perfect.

So what about the equipment safety ground, the bare/green GROUNDING conductor that is used on three wire appliances and is wired to the outer metal cases on an electric drill or skill saw etc., isn’t it “grounded” ??? Well, it is, but just because at the main service entrance the Neutral Buss and the Safety Equipment Ground Busses are bonded together, therefore, the safety equipment Ground is also tied to Mother earth but nottttt tt for reasons some might think. Since the Neutral conductor is an ordinary current conducting path which happens to be grounded, it’s referred to as a GROUNDED CONDUCTOR while the safety equipment ground (green/bare) is referred to as a GROUNDING CONDUCTOR. The sole purpose of the third wire safety equipment green/bare ground is not so that circuit is tied to Mother Earth n all those ground rods n water pipes, buttttt ttt it’s to provide a dedicated low impedance return current path back to the Neutral (Remember at the panel Neutral and Ground busses are bonded together) in case of a fault (like a hot wire gets shorted to the drill case) so the breaker trips de-energizing the circuit and you don’t die hanging onto the drill. I hear people talking about driving more ground rods and making sure that drill case or appliance or stove etc. is bonded to Mother Earth thinking that alone somehow makes it safe, while its NOT any bond to earth that can save their life, it’s the drill case or stove being bonded to Neutral back at the panel that’s critical. The safety equipment green/bare ground wire is tied to the drills case so if there’s short there’s a dedicated current return path back to the panel to trip the breaker. If you had a drill with a metal case and only a two wire circuit serving it with no third equipment grounding conductor and say you drove a ground rod and attached it to the drills case, you think that would save your life if a hot wire got shorted to the drill case NOOOOO OOOOO OOOOO OOO YOU DIEEEEE EEEEE. The reason is the earth (depends on moisture n mineral content etc. etc.) is a poor high resistance conductor so there wouldn’t be enough return current back to the panel to trip a 20 amp circuit breaker buttttt ttttt tt it only take like 50 milliamps through your old ticker to kill you which that short can continue to supply since there’s no low impedance return current path (like the equipment ground) to trip the breaker.

Sooooo ooo it’s the Neutrals that get tied to Mother Earth and driving rods into the earth to “ground” that equipment grounding conductor isn’t the thing, it’s the fact that it’s bonded to the Neutral and provides a current path back to the panel in case of a short/fault to trip the breaker n save your life that’s important.

Clear as mud lol John T Nordhoff, retired Electrical Engineer in Indiana

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teddy52food

09-17-2007 20:50:40




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to John T, 09-17-2007 08:17:17  
John & Bob Do you have an answer to the stray voltage problem??



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Fromjb2

09-17-2007 13:00:28




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to John T, 09-17-2007 08:17:17  
Hi John T, excellent article. Many years ago, I worked in a computer facility where a new isolation transformer had been installed and the Electrician was connecting up the new power feeds to the mainframe. The Electrician had all the breakers in the main panel turned off and he was connecting the wire ends in the main breaker box of the mainframe when all of a sudden there was a flash like an arc welder from where the Electrician was working. Every one rushed over to see if he was OK, he just held up his hand with a screwdriver with part of the tip and a V notch in the shaft that had been burned away. He had connected the ground lug to the case of the breaker panel and was in the process of connecting the neutral when his screw driver slipped and made contact between the neutral and grounded case. Electrician was really puzzled, he took out his VOM meter and measured between neutral and ground and there was 10VAC. After further investigation it was determined the contractor that installed the isolation transformer had never connected the neutral to the building ground point (city water pipe).
Moral of the story, always check the neutral to ground voltage with a VOM meter because serious damage or injury can occur because there are no circuit breakers on the neutral wire.

JimB

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John T

09-17-2007 14:01:27




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to Fromjb2, 09-17-2007 13:00:28  
Its been yearsssss s since I designed power distribution for a computer room but rememebr those isolation transformers are indeed considered "seperately derived sources" from which the Neutral got bonded to all sorts of grounding electrodes (earth ground rods werent available DUH) such as building steel n pipes and the raised floor skeleton steel n all other sorts of metallic objects in an attempt to keep all at one single common ground reference n avoid ground loops.

John T

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skk-big red fan

09-17-2007 12:52:36




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to John T, 09-17-2007 08:17:17  
Which explains why a hot tub is required by code to have a full four wire circuit, two hot legs, a neutral and a additional separate grounding line, plus a ground rod installed at the tub & bonded to the neutral-frame-motor and grounding path, all tied to a dedicated GFI breaker? Or not.



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John T

09-17-2007 14:02:45




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to skk-big red fan, 09-17-2007 12:52:36  
Sorry Im rusty as an old barn nail on all that swimming pool n hot tub grounding stuff, now thats some SERIOUS grounding.....

John T



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John T

09-17-2007 12:38:54




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to John T, 09-17-2007 08:17:17  
Im glad Jim n Bob M n the other Bob n others are here to keep me on my toes n we can all keep each other "honest" if thats possible lol We probably bore the others with our sparky chat but hey we have fun dont we..... ....

John T



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Bob M

09-17-2007 11:25:15




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to John T, 09-17-2007 08:17:17  
John T - Excellent post... It should be required reading for EVERYONE who does anything electrical more complex than plugging in a table lamp!

....Bob M



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Janicholson

09-17-2007 08:37:05




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to John T, 09-17-2007 08:17:17  
Great, susinct and appreciated. Well Done, Jim



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Karl Hamson

09-17-2007 19:06:57




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to Janicholson, 09-17-2007 08:37:05  
Good, clear article. I have a question. We have frequent power outages here and I have a generator to suppley emergency power, mainly for our water system ( you can't flush a toilet with candles). It is, of course, not legal or safe to wire a generator into your panel without the proper interlocks so we just use extension cords to lamps, microwave, etc. The question is, should I have the generator bonded to ground? To date I have not done so.

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Janicholson

09-19-2007 06:51:15




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 Re: Electrical Grounding in reply to Karl Hamson, 09-17-2007 19:06:57  
If connected to the outlet with a 3 wire grounded outlet, I think you are OK. Please pull the mains, and turn off all branch circuits not used, and all breakers not intended to be used. If there is (and should be) a service disconnect, use it as well. JimN



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