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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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IH/Farmall 706

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Rick MacGregor

11-08-2005 08:31:45




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Looking at a 1966 706 with a C263 and wondering what options are available to boost the HP at not too great an expense. Also, where does one find a catalog for aftermarket performance parts. Thanks, Rick.




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ejr-Ia.

11-08-2005 17:11:11




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to Rick MacGregor, 11-08-2005 08:31:45  
You could put 33/4 making it a 291 or sleeveless a 301.That means new parts and some machening but useing over the counter parts.806 carb and govenor could put up to around 90hp.



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chadd

11-08-2005 08:56:01




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to Rick MacGregor, 11-08-2005 08:31:45  
I believe that you can bore it out and install oversized pistons, port and polish the intake and exhaust, advance the timing, and that sort of thing. However, I don't think I would try it myself, because those engines can be finicky when cranked up as well as being slightly unreliable. They are great motors when stock, but after they get cranked, a simple change to regular gas from premium can take the pistons right out of them. It sounds like a fun project for tractor pulling, but it can be expensive for daily field use.

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the tractor vet

11-08-2005 17:11:15




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to chadd, 11-08-2005 08:56:01  
Now CHADD lets keep it stright here , Now what can be done to a 706 C 263 - you can bore it and iinstall the update pistons and sleeves that were made just for this it will take ya from the 263 to the 291 displacement . This will get ya on upwards of eighty Hp or better . Now if all of you EXPERTS would just READ a 706 Owners manual it will tell ya that the min. OCTAIN to used in this tractor is 93 OUR high test of TODAY STANDINGS . Back then 93 was REGULAR gas but most was around 95 octain some of the CHEEP stuff like GULFTANE was 89 or 90 and would make even a junk old cheve 283 2bbl ping. SO to run and work a 706 - 856 GASSER ya got to use the 93 of today or ya can make a collection of pistons there to big for gearshift knobs.

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chadd

11-09-2005 05:38:33




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to the tractor vet, 11-08-2005 17:11:15  
Thanks for straightening me out, I will make sure to remember that from now on. You wrote in your post that you need to use 93 octane in 706 to 856 gassers. What about 656 gassers?



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the tractor vet

11-09-2005 15:34:35




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to chadd, 11-09-2005 05:38:33  
Any of the later 6 cylinders gassers because that they all were built back when gas was gas . and most reg. grade was 95 octain. and also ya have to watch the total advance timming on them ya don't want to go over what the book calls for by more then a couple degrees and i do mean a couple.



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MN Scott

11-08-2005 20:30:39




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to the tractor vet, 11-08-2005 17:11:15  
If I remember correctlly my 706 owners manual says to retard the ignition timming one degree for every point of octane below 93. I would assume even doing this would not save the pistons and valves if worked hard. Your right not many gassers start as good as a IH 6 cylinder in cold weather. When my dad used to unroll hay for the cows the 706 was left out in the hay lot. It was a waste of fuel you know to drive it home to the shed. Some mornings the temp was -25 with high winds and the beast always fired up. The nieghber always mentions that tractor, he was always amazed when that thing would start without being plugged in.

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MN Scott

11-08-2005 10:21:48




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to chadd, 11-08-2005 08:56:01  
You have to run premium gas in them in stock form to or you will be melting pistons and burning valves. Unless your only doing light work its best to stay away from them and buy a good diesel instead.



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the tractor vet

11-08-2005 17:18:07




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to MN Scott, 11-08-2005 10:21:48  
Now as for myself i like the 706-756 gassers once ya learn all the quarks about them ya can't bet it , it will always start if it is tuned and has a good battery in all weather they warm up fast if the heat riser is working have enough powerand weight to handel just about anything that we can thro at it around here and at times we can be a littel tough on them . As of two weeks ago the 1066 got put into winter storage along with the old John Deeres and the only two tractors that we need for winter ar the 706 gasser and my old rag 806 D they will go just about always the 806 can be a littel tepermental even with the block heater.

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lenray

11-08-2005 19:12:41




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to the tractor vet, 11-08-2005 17:18:07  
Hello tractor vet always enjoy your writing and good info.
I have a 756 gasser and have wondered about the position of the heat riser above the carb.
My spring broke and I put another one on but don't really know what position it is supposed to be in.
thanks len in michigan



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the tractor vet

11-08-2005 19:33:54




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 Re: IH/Farmall 706 in reply to lenray, 11-08-2005 19:12:41  
Ya would have to ask me that one on a four beer nite now i gotta think , ----- - i'm thinking here just look down to the southeast and look for the smoke. ----- ----- -Ok , I'll try and explain it standing looking at the manifold the spring goes on so that it wraps in a clock wise rotation and the arm on the back side in the closed posision should be back and as the engine revs it should move to the foward posision and return to the closed posision when idealing the heat riser spring will weaken as the heat gets to it so it will open faster that is about as good as i can explain it . Now i have found that from years of carbon - lead from the old fuel that the area around the intake inside is all junked up and the heat does not get around the intake like it should , Now if one is realy into a bunch of hard work you sometimes can TRY and take the manifold apart and clean it BUT most time and i am sayen 99 % of the time it ain't gonna come apart . Now if the day ever comes that ya need to REPLACE the exhaust manifold then that is the time to clean it out and you would be supprised on how much crud is down there and after you done doing all this work it will take away about half to two thirds the cold stumbel and a lot less choken . When we did the total rebuild on my buddys 706 i worked for over and hour getting the baked carbon and lead deposits out of his and freeing up his heat riser.

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