YTers,Just wanted to say thanks (once again) for the advice during my Super C rebuild. I finally got the everything back together today and it fired right up.
This was an in-frame rebuild, and the tractor already had the 3-1/4" sleeves and pistons, so it is at least the 3rd set of sleeves/pistons to be in it. The top end was still in good shape from the previous rebuild. I had the head tanked and bead blasted and hand lapped the valves.
The top end gasket kit I got had a Fel-Pro head gasket that I wasn't sure which way to put it in. Finally I saw on the Fel-Pro web page that if it isn't marked "Top" or "This side up" then it doesn't matter. I coated it with copper spray adhesive before installation.
The oil pump was screwed up. One of the bolts was gone from the bottom plate (found it in the sludge in the bottom of the pan). The gasket had blown out of one side. The bottom was warped pretty bad. I rubbed it on sandpaper on and off for several hours before it seemed true enough to seal. I checked the end clearance with plastigage and used only one thin gasket.
I installed a Tisco 3-1/4" diameter sleeve/piston set. Seems to be pretty good stuff. The old sleeves and pistons were worn pretty bad. Piston to cylinder clearance was visible; ring gap was about 0.080". You think that was why it was using oil? I checked the ring gap on the new rings; a couple of them needed a swipe or two on a stone to get proper clearance.
The connecting rods were previously installed the wrong way (I think). The index numbers were all facing away from the cam. With some worry, I turned them around when I reinstalled them. The rod bearings looked pretty good; the mains looked like new. But, I replaced all of them anyway, as they are relatively cheap and easy to do. I cut a nail off and put it in the crank oil hole to turn the mains out; then also used it to help turn the new ones back in. Worked good. The crank had previously been turned 0.010". Got the head back on yesterday but one cylinder didn't have much compression. I could hear it leaking out the exhaust valve. I removed the rockers and pushed and turned on the offending valve until it seated. Don't know what was stuck under it; but it sealed after that. Set valves to 0.020" cold for intial run in (knowing I'd have to remove the rocker arms again to re-torque the head after warming it up)
After getting the manifold, radiator and carb back on; filling with oil and water (some anxious moments after filling with water...watching to see if the water level in the radiator drops from leaking around the sleeve seals!) and taking the battery off of the charger, ready to give it a try. The poor old battery could only turn it over about a 1/2 turn at a time, but after I remembered to turn the ignition on (duh) it fired right up. No knocks or leaks. Sounds good; the exhaust note is much sharper than before. Oil pressure shows about 3/4 up the gauge when warm; a big improvement.
I ran it around for about 15 or 20 minutes; tried it out in high gear on the county road. No smoke, runs and idles very smooth.
Drained the water out after it cooled down; pulled the rocker arms and re-torqued the head. Only two of the bolts wouldn't take any. The others all took about 1/8 to 1/4 turn to give me 65 ft-lbs.
When weather warms back up next spring, I'll start painting on it. Good luck all,
Bill
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