Professional Tinkering 6 to 12 volt

1. What is the purpose for the warning light that is inline from the ignition switch to the number 1 terminal on the 10SI alternator?

2. I did not find a ballast resistor inline to the coil(should I assume it is a 12V because at one time it ran and started fine with this setup) and how do I tell if it is a 12 volt?) Assuming the ballast resistor is used to decrease the current to the 6V coil, would it harm the coil if one isn't used or can you replace the coil with a 12V and don't use the resistor?

3. I had to replace my ammeter. Is it OK to go with a 12V replacement?

4. And the contacts on my starter switch are very worn and barely make contact when the switch is fully depressed. I cleaned them well and am getting it to turn for now. I'm trying to not have to replace it. Has anyone ever modified the copper contact end on the switch by building it up with a conductive material? I was thinking about drilling small holes on the end of the switch contact and putting in a couple small screws to increase the reach to the contact side of the starter? Any thoughts?

This site has bee an excellent resource for Professional Tinkering. And when a problem persists on my tractor, I can always count on you guys to help me out. Maybe someday I will take the reins and off my advice. I am just glad I'm not 20 any more because with my stupid young will I probably wouldn't even have a tractor that runs at all. I can get quite confused and frustrated. But now i just step back, grab a beer, and work on something else until the next possibility comes to mind to try and fix my problem.

Keep up the great work posting solutions! So many of us take so much pride in our work and we just need that little bit of advice form the veterans.

Thanks. Kevin

I will also say this, none of my tractors would be 12 volt if it were not for the fact I have a couple of attachments with 12 volt motors. Last week it was about -15 F here, I started all three of my tractors. From the time I pulled the ignition switch button on my 6 volt Super A, it fired up in less than 10 seconds. The 12 volt 130 and 140 took a bit longer, probably 35 to 45 seconds. I am certain, had it been 10 degrees colder, 6 volt Super A, still would have started, the other two would not have started.

2. The resistor in the line to the coil is used to decrease voltage to the coil to 6 volts. If you run with 12 volts directly to a 6 volt coil, your points will burn up after about 25 hours. A 12 volt coil basically just has the resistor inside of it. Look at your coil, if it does not say somthing like "12-volt internally resisted", don't assume anything, just get yourself a 12-volt internally resisted coil or a 6 volt coil and an external resistor.

3. Ammeters are all the same. Doesn't matter if you run 6 volts or 12 volts through them.

4. Get a new switch. They're cheap. With a bad connection like that, your starter will not be able to turn the engine over as fast as it could, which is pretty much the whole point of switching to 12 volts in the first place.