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Farmall & IHC Tractors Discussion Forum
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Super A crank Case noise II

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M Leberman

04-10-2007 07:56:03




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Hi guys, ok here is the follow up from my eariler post.

The sound was indeed coming from the crank case under the gear shift.

The sound did not stop when the clutch was engaged and the sound/noise and clicking was proportionate to the speed of the engine.

I took off the crank case inspection hatch. At first everything looked ok. All the teeth I could see looked in really good shape. I started turning the hand crank in one inch increments and inspected the teeth. After a while bad news rotated around. Just how bad I need some advice on.

On one of the lower sprockets there is/are several broken teeth and a 3 inch stretch where the teeth have been broken down to half their height. I have uploaded 3 pics to photobucket which can be seen here

Link

In one of the cogs just above the broken teeth I found a pretty large metal fragment. The top of a tooth which I removed.

Now all the other gears/ sprockets looked in really good shape and so does this one except for the 3 inches or so where the teeth are damaged. I know its not good but just how bad are we talking here? Is the problem being caused by metal debris in the works? Or is it also the broken teeth along with the debris? If I flushed out the crank case with kerosene several times and got all the metal shavings could I possibly avoid having to split the case? What do you guys think from the pics. Also I have the reprint of the IH user maintenance Manuel. Its crap. Under crank case bearing it says take it to a IH dealer. It’s a real rubbish check the oil here but don’t do anything else yourself kind of Manuel. Which shop manuals are you guys using for your super a?

Mike

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gmsupera

04-10-2007 19:05:37




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 Re: Super A crank Case noise II in reply to M Leberman, 04-10-2007 07:56:03  
My 51 S A had bad bearings put new seals and bearings and all is good



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Hugh MacKay

04-10-2007 15:39:32




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 Re: Super A crank Case noise II in reply to M Leberman, 04-10-2007 07:56:03  
Mike: First of there is nothing wrong with the operators manual, it is an excellent well written book, for what it was intended to do.

Secondly, for guys that don't know the difference between a crankcase and a transmission case, probably the operator's manual is the only manual he should have, and he should follow it to the letter. Every time the operator's manual says contact the IH dealer, that is exactly what such a guy should do.

Personally you haven't satisfied me, exactly where that noise is coming from. You say what happens when clutch is engaged but you don't say what happens when clutch is disengaged.

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Daniel H.

04-10-2007 13:58:48




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 Re: Super A crank Case noise II in reply to M Leberman, 04-10-2007 07:56:03  
My guess is that it is the oil slinger gear. These were cast aluminum and prone to breakage. You could clean out the transmission, refill with clean oil and run it, as the oil slinger is there for when doing belt pulley or stationary PTO work. An aftermarket gear is around $120.00.



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M Leberman

04-10-2007 11:41:44




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 Re: Super A crank Case noise II in reply to M Leberman, 04-10-2007 07:56:03  
Then this by IH defination would be in the transmission.

Mike



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A. Bohemian

04-10-2007 10:54:31




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 A Sin of Transmission in reply to M Leberman, 04-10-2007 07:56:03  
I'm sorry the manual is unsatisfactory. The other major choice is the IT IH-8 manual.

I like both. I pick them up and re-read them every now and then, like novels.

And, I like the fact that my local Case dealer still stands behind these tractors after sixty or more years. That's pretty unusual. Even so, they may not be able to help you in this transmission Case...

I vote split the tractor and REPLACE the transaxle.

You've had loose metal jangling around inside the housing and it all needs to be disassembled and cleaned examined carefully before being reassembled.

You could try to rebuild it yourself, but frankly, I wouldn't recommend it in the overwhelming majority of cases.

If you prefer, you can try to get a rebuilder to do it, but usually they want to sell you one already rebuilt, with yours as an exchange, and you lose the original.

Tractors with matching numbers on the engine and transaxle are worth more, so try to find an A with a good transaxle and blown motor. That way you can still run your tractor (and you've got to run it to keep it running) and keep the ORIGINAL transmission in storage.

Because,maybe someday it WILL be worth sombody's while to rebuild it without demanding an exchange.

Don't forget to slap a good clutch in while you've got it split, unless you are PERSONALLY familiar with the history of the clutch.

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A. Bohemian

04-10-2007 11:07:36




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 P. S. in reply to A. Bohemian, 04-10-2007 10:54:31  
The CRANKCASE is the part of the engine the crankshaft mounts in. A CRANK BEARING is an engine part.

Your post says you found the broken teeth "under the gearshift." The gears under the shifter are all afiliated with what IH calls the "transmission." "Transaxle" means either the transmission and axle together in one housing, or the entire rear half of the tractor, depending on context.



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JayWalt

04-10-2007 09:15:46




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 Re: Super A crank Case noise II in reply to M Leberman, 04-10-2007 07:56:03  
if u can figure out which gear it is, you could just avoid using that gear. Since its always present, its probably an input or constant mesh gear, and in that event I would really recommend fixing the gear. Flushing it out with kerosene might fix the noise issue if its caused by the broken off pieces binding a bearing or getting into the gears. You can try flushing it out, and if that doesnt work, its gonna really need to be fixed. If the noise is still present, it doesnt matter if its from the gear itself or from a bearing going out due to metal particles in it, the result is still the same. If it comes down to that, then you need to take it apart and make sure to clean all of the bearings thooughly while u have it apart. I would remove each bearing and flushing it thooughly with carb or brake cleaner while slowly spining it. Then out a little bit of lightweight oil in the race and spin it by hand to check it for wear and if there is any detectable roughness when u spin it, then it needs replaced while you have it apart.

Even if just flushing it eliminates the problem, you need to find out which gear is causing this and determine if you are willing to risk running it under power and having the gear shred more teeth and do even more damage.

On my 300U, the 4th gear has a few half broken teeth. This gear isnt constant mesh and makes no noise when using it, so I'm going to let it be.

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