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chadd
03-14-2007 05:14:08
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Re: IH 2500 Industrial in reply to Buddy Randall, 03-13-2007 18:20:23
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I am not sure about how to get a manual for it, ours came with a reprint of the original that the previous owner bought somewhere. The S/N plate is supposed to be mounted right on the side of the transmission case next to your left leg when sitting on the tractor. The number you gave indicates that you have a carbureted C-200 engine and that it was engine number 43796 made. Unfortunately, the C-200 was used in other tractors and equipment, so it more than likely doesn't match the tractor's year. There were 3 versions of the 2500. The 2500 was the first model and used a C-153 engine from the International 105 combine. The 2500 A used the same chassis with a C-200, a D-188, or a D-239 (the last two are diesels).It was the same tractor as a 574 farm tractor with a few enhancements. The 2500 B was based on the 584 farm tractor and used the same engines as the 2500 A. The 2500 A is rated at approximately 54 hp. They are good tractors overall, but are slightly underpowered. Be sure that you keep the gas tank full of gas as often as possible. The unusually shaped tank has a habit of rusting and plugging up the crossover tubes in the tank, making you run out of gas even though half of the tank is still full. Also, blow out the fuel lines and check all of the screens because they have a habit of getting rust and garbage in them, making the engine even more sluggish than normal. They use a dual range 4 speed and some had an optional Torque Amplifier attached to this to give a total of 16 forward gears and 8 reverse gears. The transmission comes standard with syncromesh, so you do not need to stop when shifting inside of a single range. You can shift anywhere inside of the hi, low, or reverse ranges by pressing the clutch, shifting to the next gear, and releasing the clutch while moving. Note that when stationary, the syncros will make it hard to shift, and IH recommends that you let off of the clutch slowly while trying to shift it into gear. It will make the gears move just enough to let you get it in gear. The differential lock is a little pedal that folds out on the left back corner of the platform you set your right foot on when on the tractor. Once you press it down, it will hold itself down until there is no longer any difference in slippage between left and right wheels, then it should kick itself out. One last thing, these tractors have unbelievably strong brakes for the size of the tractor. However they are wet brakes and are located inside of the axle housings of the rear end. If they burn up, the pad material breaks off and gets sucked into the hydraulic filter, plugging it up in a hurry. Under normal use, they last forever, however, make SURE the parking brake locking handle is either removed, disconnected, or that the idiot light on the dash works. Driving away with the park brake locked is one of the most common ways to destroy the pads. The handle for the park brake is right under the shifter on the left hand console. It will have a picture of a wheel and a lever cast into it.
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