Grinding gears on my IH 1486

Thanks Ron ronqqq@bellsouth.net

In fact I think a couple of European tractors are using that today. I drove one last fall, never saw a manual or talked with anyone who fully understood it. If you pushed the button on either the high-low-reverse or the 4 speed lever it depressed the clutch and you engaged any gear or combination of gears with not a grinding sound of any kind. If you depressed the clutch with your foot, did not push the button, one waited a long time for those transmission gears to stop.

I think it was a bit more complex than I've described, as you could also push the button and shift on the go, almost like TA except there was hesitation, but if you were shifting one gear to the next in the sequence, it would shift on the go and was very smooth doing it. This tractor was about 90 hp and had less than 1,000 hours on it. I not up on some of these newer names, would it have been Valumet. It was 4x4, had a loader and I did some loader work with it. On forward-reverse shifting, if you always pushed the button there was never a sound from that transmission even with rapid shifts. If you didn't push the button it was as bad forward to reverse as any tractor I've ever driven.

This system was definitely geared for shift on the go, I found that out doing loader work. It was not very smooth if you didn't use the clutch pedal to start from standing position. If standing and you let you finger off button in gear, it was as vicious as I've seen. Worse than my grand father at 79 with W4 and me trying to build a load of hay.

If he replaced the tranmission brake with the original style then it is adjusted like the manual shows. If the brake assembly was replaced with an after market version then the adjustment procedure may be different.

The adjustment is made on the right side of the clutch housing. There is a rod that is operated off the clutch shaft. On the rear/lower end is an adjustable clevis that is attached to a lever. The adjusment is made at this clevis.

1) Remove the pin through the clevis.

2)With the clutch held all the way down, push back on the lever, and adjust the clevis so the pin holes line up.

3) Turn the clevis 1 1/2 turns farther out, relea
se clutch, and replace pin.

Check adjustment by running the engine about 1000 RPM. Fully depress clutch. Wait about 3 seconds and you should be able to shift into gear without grinding. Extend clevis out further on rod if transmission does not stop soon enough.

If the brake pad inside is worn out you will not be able to get the tranmission to stop correctly if adjusted like this.

If the rod on the right side is welded to a tube with a gease zerk on it the adjustment is different. This system uses a metalic brake pad and a spring inside the tube in the rod. This style is adjusted with the clutch released. Simply adjust the clevis so the pin can be inserted.

If your new to these large chassis IH tractors, you probably have a habit to break. When you stop forward or rear movement of tractor, NEVER push the clutch pedal all the way down until tractor stops moving. The clutch pedal activates that trans mission brake when down. You have to learn to press clutch pedal just far enough to release the clutch, then after tractor stops push it rest of way down. Applying that brake while tractor is moving will tear it to shreds in a month.

Don't ask me how I found out. I will tell you it was 30 years ago.

In total close to 75,000 hours on 5 TA equipped tractors and only one TA replaced under 10,000 hours, and that was the first one being a 300. We try to learn from our mistakes, and not blame them on the tractor. By the way, I also got 13,000 hours out of a Deere Power Shift, and there were folks that called those junk. Same principle applied, adjust that throttle to compensate for change in road gears. Once you get over 10 mph, it's the same principle as a truck, eliminate the shock load when shifting.