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Putting it at full-throttle on your 410 probably won't change a thing. That does work on certain injection pumps - but not your Stanadyne-Roosamaster C, DB, or JDB pump. I worked on Deere third-generation diesels since they came out new - and we had many cold-starting issues. I can't possibly address them all here.
But, here a little info. Many of those engines - like you have in your 410, had the problem you describe since the day they were new. I worked along side Deere engineers - in our shop trying to narrow down the problem. Better put, they worked along side us grease-monkeys. These were mostly college guys from Deere that rarely got their hands dirty. In one case - we had two, brand new 350Cs - one started great down to 30 degrees F (with no heater or ether) and other wouldn't start unless it was 60 degrees F out. We took them both apart and swapped parts - including pistons, sleeves, rods, injection pump, cylinder head, camshaft, etc. No matter what parts we swapped - the bad starting tractor still started bad, and the good one still started good. This was late 70s, early 80s. Deere finally decided they had a production problem and some blocks were machined too far above the crankshaft. Deere came up with many band-aid fixes e.g. pistons with higher top ring grooves, special head gaskets, etc. We did the same parts swap with two new 2940 ag tractors with the same results. With your tractor, it would be a big help to know if it EVER started better. A Deere engine can develop the symptoms your's has, later in life - by a valve job where too much grinding is done and the valve heads now sit too deep in the head. It won't affect the way it runs once warmed up, just cold starting. Fuel delivery - if the cranking fuel delivery is set too low, the tractor will be awful to start when cold, but can still run just fine. Often, when this is the case - it will hardly make any smoke when you work it hard. It also will often start easily cold with a small shot of ether. A good test is - just spend 10 minutes on it and turn up the fuel a 1/8 turn, and see if it starts better. Cranking speed - 410 can easily get bogged down by the hydraulic system and crank too slow for good starting when cold. The fuel injection pump only turns 1/2 engine speed as it is, so - if the engine cranks slow, and the pump is used, you can get low fuel delivery on top of compression-ignition problems. If in doubt, install a $10 manual destroker valve - it takes five minutes to put in. Damaged top rings - very common in non-turbo 410s. They tend to shatter with ether use and result in very hard starting. But, if this is the case, the machine would skip and smoke until you got it good and hot - but otherwise run well.
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