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'41 model B
Show Parts for Model:

almost there

Author 
clickent

02-12-2001 18:40:46
66.26.17.108



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I have several questions but I'd like to tell you how I got to where I am first.

When I bought my "B" a year ago I knew I had a gem. The bad news was that the sheetmetal was looked like a tin can that sat outside for forty years, the charging system didn't work, the starter didn't work, the lights were missing, leaks everywhere and the front tires were shot. The good news was that the engine would start with one or two bumps on the crank, it ran very well, it came with implements and also the original Bill of Sale (WOW). For the first week I would go and start it everyday and marvel how easy something that looked so bad could start and run so well. The second week I got an idea.

I have a background as a mechanic, a welder and a machinist and currently own a tire shop, an auto repair business and a welding service but, I have never owned a tractor before. I thought this would make a perfect Sunday (many Sundays) hobby. I was determined to do the best restoration that my skills and wallet could afford. I stripped it down to the bare bones, adjusted the brakes, clutch, repaired the engine (bent pushrod and replace every seal and gasket), fixed the radiator, replaced flywheel ring gear, repaired the front end, repaired the starter and generator and started on the metal work. I've had some setbacks, mainly time. Work has taken most of my year away and stripped parts have needed extra attention since they started rusting as soon as I stripped the old gunk and paint off them. I soaked my carb in a coffee can of kerosene while I was working on other areas but forgot about it for awhile and the kerosene was displaced by rainwater. The carb is in sad shape right now and a smarter or wealthlier man would probably buy a new one. I WILL restore that carb.

Currently most of the engine is ready to go. After the carb I plan on painting. I am very anxious to hear it running again but since I'm trying to paint it in stages it doesn't make any sense to do any more reassembly till I get some orange on it. Currently almost all the parts are primered. I'm just looking for a warm Sunday to paint. I figure I'm five or six warm Sundays from being able to show off my tractor.

Ok, the questions:
1. My steering wheel has many cracks and small chunks missing out of the black (dipped part). I read someplace about somebody filling cracks with body filler and then painting. Sounds good for cracks but I'm not too sure about chunks. Anybody have a better method? Remember, I'm trying to restore parts, not replace them.

2. Foolproof method of setting the intial timing? I don't know that the starter will function correctly although it ground tested well. I would like to crank start it for my own satisfaction but I'm too old to be sitting around waiting for bones to mend. I'd like to get this right the first time.

3. Intial carb settings? Again I'd like to get this right the first time.

4. There is three parts that I need that I can't find. I'm still looking for the correct headlights, small red lens for taillight and water temp gauge that works and says Allis-Chalmers.

Thank you in advance for all the assistance. I promise to post updates and pictures, before and after. clickent

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Glenn

02-12-2001 19:52:14
63.14.187.249



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 Re: '41 model B - almost there in reply to clickent, 02-12-2001 18:40:46  
I've heard that JB Weld can be used on steering wheels with good results. I've never used it myself, so I can't vouch for it. As for the headlights, taillight, and water temperature gauge, you might want to post a Want-To-Buy ad in the classified section of this site if you haven't already. All three items appear on eBay every now and then; try doing a search on +allis +chalmers and just keep watching.

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Paul from Michigan

02-12-2001 19:41:57
209.45.201.130



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 Re: '41 model B - almost there in reply to clickent, 02-12-2001 18:40:46  
1.I think the body filler would work fine to fill the steering wheel, even where there are some big chunks gone. You might try sand blasting the metal ring to get a good suface to bond the filler. Maybe some of the fiberglass type filler would be a little stronger than plain old Bondo.
2. The word "fire" will appear in the hole in the left side of the bell housing at the ignition point under full advance. The correct lag angle for the mag is 30 degrees. Set the magneto to click about 30 degrees past the fire mark and it should be close enough to start.
3. Set both idle and load(if you have one on your carb) at about 1-1/2 turns open. Then adjust after your get it running.
4. Try Roger Van Camp (219-747-3455) for your parts. The red lense are made out of unobtainium. Good Luck. Paul

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clickent

02-12-2001 20:19:39
66.26.17.108



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 Re: Re: '41 model B - almost there in reply to Paul from Michigan, 02-12-2001 19:41:57  
1. I think I'll try the resin. Good idea.

2. The distributer cap is off right now and there is a sticker that says mesh gears properly with an "A" and "C" marks. I'm not sure what the A and C are for but I would think that I get the first piston to the top of the compression stroke, with fire visible in the hole, and then put the cap on with the button lined up to the number one plug wire. Then move the engine to thirty degrees past fire, then rotate the magneto till it clicks and tighten down. Sound right?

4. Are the original headlights suppose to be 5"? I have two pieces of unobtainium that I may try to glue back together to make a taillight. Just don't want it to look tacky. Thanks, clickent

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