Posted by antique_rider on October 26, 2012 at 17:55:22 from (50.103.230.183):
I have three plows for my pair of WDs... One has regular lift arms and drawbar linkage with pins, the other one has a snap-coupler type setup.
--a 3 Bottom with the hitch you have to pin underneath the tractor and then somehow you have to pin it to the lift arm holes. --a 3 bottom with the snap coupler type attachment with the bell housing underneath the tractor and the two snap arms on the lift arms --a 2 bottom pull behind plow with 2 wheels and a hydraulic cylinder
I have a plow manual for the "52/53" plow, which I believe is the first one I have listed... And it says that I need to remove the PTO shaft to put the plow on. Is the same true for the snap coupler plow; does the PTO shaft need to come off for it as well? How hard is the PTO shaft to take off?
For the ease of use, and for fun, I took the old two bottom pull behind out and dropped it in the ground, and did a single pass in a grassy field in 2nd gear half open... But I think something is frozen up on her. The front shear dropped right in and did a semi-decent job of rolling the sod, in spite of the rust. However, the second shear just sort of skimmed along the ground. I assume I probably have some sort of frozen adjustment issues?
Also, do I need to have the tires all the way in no matter which of the three plows I use -- or does it really even matter on the pull behind 2 bottom if they were halfway out? Is there a reason I should use a mounted 3 bottom instead of a pull behind 2 bottom? I just want to plow up a new garden spot and let the old plot go back to pasture for awhile. I think the plows are 3-14s and the other is a 2-16.
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