The 706 and 806 are the same brakes. Both tractors were changed to have different primary plate, intermediate plate and drum. So, you need to have all three correct parts. The self adjusters were improved but either will work. You have to be sure to back that self adjuster off each time you remove and install brake. The return springs have to contact the lugs on primary plate to force piston back against self adjusters(make doubly sure of that. You should be able sneak a gauge underneath after assembly (not 100 percent sure on those anymore but can on some models) to make sure discs have like .020 clearance. Problem I am having from this end is if you had wrong parts it would lock up before you started engine or have no brakes at all.
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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