Your pix says the stick had a poor grain.Were the screws missing when it broke.One sure way to break a stick is to strike a rock with the end of the knife.Run the knife shoes as high as possible.The slip clutch will take care of grass binding.The knife has to be kept SHARP.Take a close look at the grain of the wood on new sticks.New pitman Sticks are 25 bucks here.Tsc only stocks blanks here at 12 bucks.I will make my own at these prices.Ash or white oak is the best wood.Hickory would be good but it dosent grow here.Theres a lot of labor in a pitman stick but prices are just too high.Your broken stick would have made a poor ax handle with it diagonal grain.Take measurments off your broken stick to make a new one.Making the hole for the latch spring will be the hard part.Years ago I needed new wood for the plunger on my baler.Dealer wanted 49 bucks for 2 hard maple sticks with a few holes in them.I said no thank you.I had a few hard maple planks up in the hay loft.I had the 2 pieces made in a half hour.At that time I could have bought a cord of ash fire wood for 49 bucks.Ash dosent weather well so it would be best to take the pitman arm off and hang it up under cover after the mowing is done.
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Today's Featured Article - Fasteners: The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts - by Curtis Von Fange. The nuts and bolts of nuts and bolts is an interesting and essential piece of knowledge that applies to our older tractors. An improperly torqued capscrew on an engine head or a shear bolt that is too hard on the driving shaft of a bushog can create havoc and make an expensive and uncalled for repair. Let�s examine the purpose and design of these fasteners in order to ensure their proper use. Fasteners are probably one of the aspects of mechanics that is given the least amount of thought.
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