Re: tractor

Posted by Janicholson on March 12, 2011 at 21:17:37 from (67.72.98.45):

In Reply to: Re: tractor posted by bill04 on March 12, 2011 at 17:05:22:

Here is a previous posting from me that lays it all out pretty well! It applies to yours. Jim
Hello, and welcome to the forum. I and most others on this forum have quantities of sharable tactics. No question is stupid, so go for it.
Lets start with the saaumption that it is a 350U (if not most of this applies anyway)
Brakes first. They are easy to take apart. If a tractor will not stop, it has no business being driven.
The brakes work as follows:
a shaft extends on each side connected to the side gears of the differential (which is not directly connected to the axles, and thus is farther forward) is used for the brakes.
These shafts turn at substantially higher speed than the rear wheels.
Inside the brake housing is a stack of three main components. Two dual sided friction disks, and an expander.
The expander is constructed of two iron plates that are separated by a set of three steel balls. These balls are set in ramp shaped grooves. the linkage from the pedal pulls on these plates in opposite direction causing them to turn in relation to each other. This causes the balls to run up the ramps and force the plates farther apart. The expanding plates encounter the inner surface of the friction disks pushing them innward toward the tractor, and outward towadr the inside of the housing. this pinches the disks, and begins slowing them (in theory). The disks are splined to the shaft, and thus are turning. This turning is thus transfered to the expander plates and causes a variable amount of "servo" action. This means self energizing action that helps apply stopping power as the expander is twisted by both the pedal links, and the action of the friction disk turning on it. I now ask you to persue the caseih.com website looking for parts. when you get to the entry box for a model, put in international (or 350), but not both.
find your tractor, and find the section on brakes,(probably in the chassis section)
Your family of repair specialists will need a repair manual (local libraries have copies you can photocopy the pages from) but you will need to order an IT manual, and an original factory repair manual.
If the brakes just push all the way down W/O doing anything to speak of, they may need replacement friction disks. (or those relined)
if there is a feel of something there, but it is not effective, they can probably be cleaned and made to work well.(goggles are a mandatory all the time safety factor)
Take the linkage off of the pedal (one side at a time, so you can see what it looks like if needed) first. then loosen and remove the bolts holding on the housing. This is simple stuff, but do not twist off components, penetrating juice, a bit of heat, and time may be needed to avoid thread repair.
Clean everything with a rotary wire brush. the small springs that hold the expander plates together need to be taken off. use pliers, but don"t distort the spring wire. Pay attention to the ramps and balls. they need to be spiffy. if there are worn dents in the ramps, they need to be sanded out or the balls get stuck in them, and stop allowing the brakes to work. Pay attention to the ramp angle, and minimize material removal. The balls must move in these ramps easily. A light film of LPS corrosion inhibitor spray should be applied to the ramp tracks only. Use a mask cut from paper to prevent overspray from getting on the other surfaces. apply the spray to the balls also.
If the disks are thin (specifications are in the book) then reline or replace. other than that, and PTFE based spray (TriFlo) on the linkage, put it back together.
Take care, and fix the brakes befor driving lessons. JimN

Replies:

• Re: tractor bill04 06:30:55 03/13/11 (0)

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