Many years ago Dad had a three point carrier that was a little different from any I've seen since. Instead of having the two lower pins fixed on the frame, the frame had some loops. A regular drawbar, like the kind you see used between the lower arms, slide through the loops. The loops allowed for the bar to have about 4" of travel up and down, and the uprights limited the side to side travel to about an inch or so, so that it was very easy to hitch up. The 4" or so of "float" meant that it would always go down to the ground. Maybe someone here has a photo of one. I would buy another one like it in a minute, it really worked well. The standard dimensions for category I and II are posted somewhere on this website. One thing you might want to consider is to make your stuff compatible with quick hitches. I use a JD i-Match on my small tractor. Deere has been building their stuff so it is compatible with their quick hitches for years. A lot of other stuff, even though it might have the right dimensions for Category I, won't work because something is in the way of the quick hitch coming in from under and raising up to engage. Usually the top link hitch point is the problem. The ears for the top hitch are often welded on top - like you have done on your receiver hitches, so that the quick hitch hook can't get under it. Making your stuff quick hitch compatible would give you a leg up on most of your competition.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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