Posted by willie in mn on March 05, 2011 at 02:37:07 from (64.12.116.74):
In Reply to: Chevy 350 problem posted by Poor farmer 830 on March 04, 2011 at 14:29:27:
Seriously doubt it is a vacuum leak. When sensor detects excess air, it signals injectors to add more fuel to correct the mixture. Excess air with more fuel to correct the mixture will kick the idle speed way up. BTDT, bad hose to heater control. Did the problem start after replacing the pump?Time to sit back, have a beverage, & retrace the steps when replacing the pump. Did you drop the tank or lift the box? Some say it is easier to lift the box,less work & can work on pump standing up rather than lying on your back wrestling with the tank. Did a wire to turn signal/brake lite get pinched putting things back together? If it did, it could pull voltage down enough to stop pump or ignition, but not quite enough to pop a fuse. Turn signal & brake lite use same wire/bulb, but when using signal, voltage could recover enough to keep running when signal blinks. Weird things sometimes creep up on you, & not where you think it could be. Eg: IHC truck, 345 V8 gas, radio cut out every time I shifted. Finally got to where engine died. Start right up again, but die when tried to move. Seemed clutch pedal related, but everything ok moving clutch but not in gear, clutch linkage not touching any wires. Problem- left motor mount bad, torque twisted motor to right, battery cable shorting to frame enough to kill ignition, then drop back, release the short & not burn up battery. Temporary repair- wrap a leather glove around batt cable, drive to shop. Permanent repair- replace motor mounts & add safety cable. Cable like GM did for jambed throttles back in the 70s. Might not be your problem, but another angle to check. HTH Willie
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