I assume you have rebuilt the engine and it still gets coolant into the (a) cylinder, right..?
I gather that you do not work it hard...
Could that also mean that you have never gotten it really Thoroughly HEATED up (Heat-Saturated), before attempting to re-torque the head..?
Might be worth looking into (along with the Bar's Leaks).. I prefer lubricated head-bolt threads, and if a head bolt won't give, loosen it a touch and get it to move, before you consider it "Torqued".. You will find you gain quite a bit on the bolts that way.. Good Luck..!
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Profile: Ferguson TO-20 - by Staff. When the infamous "Handshake Agreement" between Henry Ford and Harry Ferguson fell by the wayside (that's a story in itself), Harry Ferguson quickly set up manufacturing plants for a United States version of his English TE-20. The TO-20 was relatively the same as the TE-20 except utilized some different casting materials and had a US-style electrical system. The TO-20 was a dead ringer for the Ford 9N and 2N models and they say that Ferguson did this on purpose when the Handshake Agreement wen
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