I did that kind of thing with my 4020 and 24T baler.
I always used the Farmall 404 to bale hay just fine. On the very day I had to bale around 1000 bales, the 404 developed carburetor problems.
SO, I went to put the fuel hog to work (barely to work) on the 24T baler. Kept snapping shear pin after shear pin. Half throttle made it worse. Slower gear only allowed a little bit more time before a pin would break.
I DIDN'T have the bales packed any tighter, NOR did I have the windrows any larger than I would normally do.
There's just something about brute strength and raw, unused horsepower that changes the whole physics of drawn implements.
My old Farmall H would be hammering away on all 4 cylinders pulling my angled disk and never break anything on the disk. Went to hook the 2640 up to it one day and all of a sudden I'm having broken disks and a bearing out on the left side.
Guess it doesn't pay to have too much horsepower not only because of fuel costs, but that your IMPLEMENTS NO LONGER LIKE YOU!
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning Up Your Tractor: The Battery - by Curtis Von Fange. Buried somewhere beneath the sheetmetal, under the gas tank, or stuffed in front of the radiator is the battery. This elusive and neglected component of the tractor is the hardest to get to when it is dead and in need of a jump. But usually, the storage battery is a storehouse of electrical energy waiting to be released a the flick of a switch. A few maintenance tips and periodic cleaning will keep it charged for the duration of its life span. The battery is made up of a number of lead bas
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