Id start by getting warmed up and checking injectors with the ohm meter.
Get you timing light out,, make sure the spout connector is pulled out and check the base timing with a light. It has to be set on 10 btc. set it then reinstall the spout connector.
This has to be set this way,,,, cant do it by ear.
You could have a vacuum leak,,, the guy who worked on it could have messed with the idle stop, which is a no no,,,, the IAC and the TPS will not record data correctly and it will cause it to do what you describe.
Ive had to get em warmed up and try to set the idle speed, then shut it off and start it to see if it idles around 800 rpm,,,, its a test and try proceedue.
Try this,, warm it up,, then set the idle speed up to about 1000 rpm on the tach (if it has one) and then shut it off, let it sit for 5 minutes then restart it. It will auto adjust the idle speed, you just have to keep doing that till it idles at correct speed. Then, if nothing else it wrong, the ecm can start to relearn to run the engine and smooth out the longer it runs.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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