You need to know how the original porch deck was framed and planked. It is not likely to have conventional 16" centered joists. Probably had a pitch. Original tongue and groove decking probably ran in 8' lenghts, not the 22' run, so the grooves wouldn't ship water. So the decking was blind nailed to stringers running 22'. Under the stringers there are probably about four 6" X 8" timber joists notched into the original foundation.
The stringers are probably notched over the timbers, and are not plumb, so the tongue and groove would lay flat.
You need to know how the inside 22' run is ledged or notched to the original foundation, before you jack the corner. Its best to slide a beam under and raise the whole business at once. Catch all the joists at once. Then the jack can be outside the foundation. Jack slowly, let the wood stretch.
Assess the roof framing as it connects to the original roof. There is not a lot of weight, relatively, on the roof, but if the walls aren't sound, like some rot at the bottom of the studs, you will compress the walls and have the roof out of level with the deck. You really, really, want the roof to be as straight as possible.
So, it probably would be best to brace the roof, then take out the walls.
Looks like the upper roof of the main house sheds water to the lower roof, then the gutter brings all that water to the corner that dropped. When you get done, see that that water gets well away from the house. Best Regards, Charlie
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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