Looks like an easy jack-job to me. An inch-and-a-half is near nothing. Hardly worth worrying about if the sill is still solid and the foundaton not sinking or cracked. I've had to jack up many large farm-houses built in the early 1800s -often off level by over two feet from one end to the other. Most were post and beam though, that makes jacking from the bottom a bit easier then frame-walls.
By the way, someone else mentioned capping your sill with aluminum. If you do, make sure your sill isn't made from any recent pressure-treated wood - because it will corrode aluminum something awful. Esecially if it's ACQ treated.
I suspect the main part of your house - since it's relatively modern - has a full basement with walls that go well down below the frost line.
On the other hand, the porch most likely does not - and was also built with a pitch with a slope when new to shed rain and snow away from the house. Porch foundations often sink unless they go below the frost line (and many do not).
I wouldn't be afraid to jack from the bottom, or make temp supports for the roof. Not an awful lot of weight there (on a relative scale). If you are dead set on contructing an entire new wall, holding the roof up on temp supports is the easiest way to go.
When you get done doing all that insulating, trapped moisture is going to be a concern. The tighter you make it, the more you need a good vapor barrier on the inside walls.
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Today's Featured Article - Hydraulics - Cylinder Anatomy - by Curtis von Fange. Let�s make one more addition to our series on hydraulics. I�ve noticed a few questions in the comment section that could pertain to hydraulic cylinders so I thought we could take a short look at this real workhorse of the circuit. Cylinders are the reason for the hydraulic circuit. They take the fluid power delivered from the pump and magically change it into mechanical power. There are many types of cylinders that one might run across on a farm scenario. Each one could take a chapter in
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