In the fall 1976, I built a blade for the front of the loader we used on a Farmall Super M. I'm still using it. The loader is a BushHog/Freeman 2000 loader. I took off the trip bucket, and started welding a frame that pinned into the holes in the loader arms, and had a channel iron and angle iron subframe that fit over the loader arms and braced to the middle and top of the blade. All I had for blade material was a sheet of steel about 3/16" thick that was 8' x 40" and I put a 3/4" x 8' long piece of plate on the bottom edge. My Dad and everyone in the neighborhood was making fun of how big I made it except one older farmer who said "If you get enough weight behind it, you can push it!" With 14.9 tires (fluid filled) and two wheel weights on each side, I still didn't have quite the traction I needed, so I stacked two more wheel weights on the drawbar and 16" extension. I ran it that way for several winters. For the last few years, the loader has been on the Farmall M instead of the SM. Slightly smaller tires, but with a 3pt hitch carrying a box scraper, which adds a lot of weight to the back. I have broken through drifts as deep as 5 feet, and it will handle 2' deep snow in third gear quite well, unless there is ice below it. The blade does not have any provisions to angle from side to side, but it does angle back about 10 degreees from bottom to top. It's not fancy, was built in one afternoon, and I've yet to tear it up.
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Today's Featured Article - Massey Ferguson 35 (and up) Tractor Assembly Notes - by Jack Wetmore. These assembly notes are for Massey Ferguson tractors with a two stage clutch and 6 speed, 8 speed and mutli-power transmissions. I see a lot of discussion forum messages regarding damaged clutches from improper assembly. The objective is to have the engine and transmission slide together safely and easily until the gap between the two halves is less than 1/4", BEFORE tightening any of the bolts holding the two together. Using bolts to draw the two halves together will damage the PTO
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