It's kind of an apples and oranges comparison for either, if designed properly. Often, when a company takes an existing NA engine, and puts a turbo on it, they beef it up along the way. Lower compression pistons - that might be a anodized and use plasma Keystone rings, bigger piston pins, piston-skirt oil cooling, stronger rods, bigger cooling system, etc. If done right, one can last just as long a the other. Turbo version does more work and is built to endure it. In fact, sometimes the turbo versions last longer because they don't suffer from being overheated and overfueled, and lugged, resulting in cracked heads. That is very common in some non-turbo automtotive diesels.
Now, is a NA cheaper? Well yeah, usually since it costs less to build. But many times a smaller turbo engine takes the place of a larger NA engine - so that cuts down somewhat on the price difference.
Less things to wrong? One less turbo on the NA, that's all (for many systems), and turbos can last a very long time.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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