500 hp is quite optimistic as others have said, especially from a 5.0L, unless there is a turbo or supercharger involved.
0-60 should be in the high 3"s if you can get traction. I had a classic roadsters AC Cobra and it was heavy 2700lbs, could only pull 13.7 in the 1/4 with a 300hp 351W.
If you can get it cheap maybe, sounds like a fair amount of fiberglass damage plus all the chassis parts. I"ve never heard of a TVR kit, maybe its a European company.
In the US most "collectors" of replicas "fake" tend to want a Ford engine from my experience. The chevy powertrains sell for considerably less. But if you are the one driving it, who cares, its yours.
Last I checked $25K US could get you into a very nice replica, I"d keep that in mind as you put together your parts/labor list.
Oh and if your interested in an engine, this ones for sale, it dynoed at 666hp, and if you"re nuts enough there"s also the 600hp Pro-fogger nitrous just below the carbs.
Just be careful, I"ve seen to many "easy fixes" end up costing more than a nice turn-key car, plus you didn"t lose two years of your spare time in labor.
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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