I have a box blade, rear scraper blade and a landscrape rake, for the heavy work I like the box best. I set the blade on the ground, adjust the top link so it is just above cutting into the ground and use it with the tractor 3pt set in draft mode instead of position. It drags on the ground cutting the high spots with the front blade and packs with the rear blade, also you don"t get the washboard effect from the tractor going into and over ruts since the blade is dragging on the ground. I have a hyd top link which makes adjustments easier but I used to do it with a regular top link, you do adjust the cut occasionally for a good job.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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one 8n and one 9n tractor. totaly restored,pretty much everything is new. one 6ft blade good shape.
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