Thanks NC WAYNE, The bolt does have 2 bearings that ride on the shank, along with 3 spacers, 1 on each outside edge, and 1 in between the 2 bearings, to keep a certain amount of space for the bearings to ride and not bind up. The bolt has to be torqued to at least 230#,and fit right next to another sprocket for the hydraulic motor.The engineers weren't thinking as to when you have to disassemble everything for replacement.The original nut came loose and was rubbing on the sprocket off the hyd motor,I think because the bearing went bad.We had the machine overfilled a little on the oil so I know it wasn't because it was run low on oil. There is very little room between the sprocket and the final drive adjuster bracket, so a double nut won't work,just to get the bracket out you have to spread the tank enough to have the final drive sprocket bracket come out, alot of fun.LOL.Thanks for the information and I'll keep this in mind.Seems like they would discontinue the nut and not the bolt,but since I don't run the company,my opinion doesn't count.LOL Warmest reguards,LOU
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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