A not too expensive starting fix for my 4020 gas, was to replace the pathetic Delco 10 MT starter with a Delco 20 MT . It bolts right on and has twice the cranking power of the OEM 10MT.
That starter change took it from a rig that struggled at every start and required the steering wheel wiggle every time, to a rig that starts instantly and actually has to slow down to hit idle speed. The load of the hyd pump means nothing with that powerful starter.
I stayed away from the pump destroking kits because the manual kit is an absolute pain in the donkey with you needing to get down and turn it on / off at every start, and the electric destroker kit is outrageously expensive at near $600. Actually if your able to rebuild a starter, you can convert a 10 MT to a 20 MT by installing a salvage yard 20 MT field housing, bolts and armature in your old 10 MT starter. Otherwise a complete Rebuilt starter from a good company like Wilson, is not all that expensive.
With the 20 MT starter and no destroke kit, turning on that 20 MT rocks the tractor a bit on the tires and it cranks at a steady guestimated 400 rpm. This is with an single Exide Orbital spiral cell AGM battery, kind of a clone of the Optima red top, but $40 cheaper.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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