Your learning curve will be very steep - but that's OK. You'll have better questions after you've scraped dirt for an hour.
The moldboards must be shiny (scoured) before any reasonable adjustment can be made. (Imagine trying to slice salami with a very dull knife). If they are not scoured, take it out in any field, drop it in the ground, and just move dirt until the rust if mostly gone.
Set the coulters about 3/4" toward the unplowed land from the edge of the frog, and about 2" higher than the tip of the share.
The inside of the right rear tractor wheel should be 15 to 18" from the tractor center. You probably won't be able to get the wheel this close, so you will need to have the drawbar offset to the right as a compromise.
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Today's Featured Article - A 1937 John Deere Unstuck - by Gary Hickman. Here is my story of how I got the pistons out of a 1937 JD B that the engine had been stuck for about 14 years: About 12 years ago my Dad gave me one of the tractors I ran as I was growing up on our farm in central Nebraska. The engine on this tractor, a 1937 John Deere "B", had been stuck for 2 years before he gave it to me. This last spring (1999) I hauled the tractor to our 2 acre lot in St. Libory Nebraska where it joined my antique machinery collection, at that time a 1929 Caterpillar T
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