The manual for my box blade says it's more aggresive with a shorter top link. Of course on a box blade you can set it so runs on the front corners of the side plates so it dosen't dig in. Other than that, a shorter top link does make it dig in more. You don't have to drop the blade all the way down though. A lot of times you can just skim the surface to avoid digging in too much. If you've got a rough driveway to begin with, you'll need to go slow and manually raise and lower the blade to get it rough levelled. Then you can set blade for the final levelling. It takes some practice. Pulling the blade backwards works good for final levelling. The biggest thing to watch for is larger rocks in your gravel. They will dig ruts and make it extremely difficult to get a nice even surface. If you see any larger rocks, stop and pick them up. Dave
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Today's Featured Article - Ford Part Number Trivia - by Forum Participants. "Replaced by" means the part was superseded. All of my part books date back to 1964 and New Holland have changed some part numbers. They usually put the old Ford part number on the package. I was suppressed when I looked up the part number of the auxiliary drive shaft because for some reason the part number went through a radical change and it lost its "Basic Part Number". Ford part numbers follow the following rules. Most part numbers are in three parts. The middle part is called the
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