I have had no problems switching. I get NAPA (Ashland) synthetic pretty cheap with my discount. My "48 Desoto has 5W20, it called for straight 20 weight. The "50 Dodge and "56 Plymouth get 10W30, they call for 30 weight. All three are flatheads, DeSoto has 46k miles, the Dodge 96k, and the Plymouth is on it"s first synthetic after break in. I also switched a Diesel Mercedes with 240k miles to 5W40 Rotella Synthetic. The turbo seems to spool up better when the engine is not fully hot yet. I do not run long change intervals since as you noted, the price is so close to normal oil. I figure in the older engines without PCV that it is worth it, especially with town driving. I would recommend that if you have any leaks, fix them first. The Mercedes leaked the same after synthetic as it did before. The DeSoto had leaky pan gaskets that I replaced before switching. I cleaned out all the sludge at that time. Pulling the pan and removing sludge is a good idea before switching if you think it might be gunked up. Good chance to inspect inside and Plastigage the bearings.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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