While I understand that a clutch disc can stick to the input shaft that alone will not cause it to stick like your describing so penetrating oil isn't likely to do alot of good beyond getting into the lining. That said, and knowing that it has a loader on it take it to the field and bury the bucket in the ground and try to get a big bite. When the rear tires start to spin hit the differential lock so both rears spin and then hit the clutch. Between the force of the engine turning everything and then the stuttering action caused by the tires spinning (I assume it has chevron tread tractor tires or something equilivent)it should break the clutch free. Once free all you need to do is ride the clutch a bit and let everything polish itself out and you should be fine. Granted you might cut a season of use off of the life span but it beats having to break the tractor in half just for it being stuck. I've seen alot of clutches stuck over the years and doing what I just described, be it with a buried loader bucket or putting a push bar against a tree, I have never had one that won't release eventually. Too, if possible, you might also want to put the drawbar against something and try the same scenario in reverse. Sometimes I have found if it didn't work in forward that alternating between fwd and rev would work...sort of like bending a piece of metal back and forth to break it off. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - Tuning-Up Your Tractor: Secondary Ignition Wires and Distributor - by Curtis Von Fange. In our last episode we spent the entire day checking out the spark plugs. Is that efficency? Actually, it took more time to explain than it really did to do the inspection. At any rate we decided that a compression test was in order so we could verify the internal engine status. That way we wouldn't buy any tune up parts until we were sure that the engine was in reasonable mechanical condition. Our tests showed a fictional compression reading of 85, 80, 82 and 86 psi. That is well within a
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