While I understand that a clutch disc can stick to the input shaft that alone will not cause it to stick like your describing so penetrating oil isn't likely to do alot of good beyond getting into the lining. That said, and knowing that it has a loader on it take it to the field and bury the bucket in the ground and try to get a big bite. When the rear tires start to spin hit the differential lock so both rears spin and then hit the clutch. Between the force of the engine turning everything and then the stuttering action caused by the tires spinning (I assume it has chevron tread tractor tires or something equilivent)it should break the clutch free. Once free all you need to do is ride the clutch a bit and let everything polish itself out and you should be fine. Granted you might cut a season of use off of the life span but it beats having to break the tractor in half just for it being stuck. I've seen alot of clutches stuck over the years and doing what I just described, be it with a buried loader bucket or putting a push bar against a tree, I have never had one that won't release eventually. Too, if possible, you might also want to put the drawbar against something and try the same scenario in reverse. Sometimes I have found if it didn't work in forward that alternating between fwd and rev would work...sort of like bending a piece of metal back and forth to break it off. Good luck.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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