I think Allan's right, all turn CC as viewed from above. The significant twist is on the long runs between the deck's center spindle and the adjustable spindles at the rear of the tractor, which route the belt 90 degrees up to the drive spindle. Shouldn't be any twist between deck spindles. I think one long run has 1/2 twist, the other has 1 1/2 twist. Think there's also 1/2 twist in one run between an adjustable rear spindle and the drive spindle. Check the manual section of the Woods website, pick the manual for your specific mower/tractor combo, and check the routing diagram. My 3 blades are identical, not L, R, or center specific. They also step down about 6 inches out from the center hole, would be difficult to mount them upside down, IE: backwards. If/when you have to re-route the belt, I've found it easiest to start by making the initial wrap around the bottom center-pulley groove, out to the first side spindle and keep going in that direction, following the diagram. I've also found it helpful to loosen the adjustable rear spindles to where they can be adjusted with the tap of a hammer while routing the belt. When done routing, I tighten the rear spindle that tensions downward first and then use the scissors jack from a car between the drawbar and the upward tensioning spindle. I get that belt darn tensioned before tighening the spindle down, this will greatly increase belt life. If you're an engineer and want a better definition of "darn tensioned", look in the manual. I periodically re-set this tension with the jack, occassionally having to move the downward tensioning spindle. If the belt hasn't broken by the time both adjustments are maxed, just run it till it breaks. Before I adopted this method, I'd only get a year or two out of a belt, now I get 3-4 years. You'll also see the difference between cheap chinese belts and a woods belt with this method, go with the woods.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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