With baler not hooked to tractor, support the pto shaft so it will turn (and not kink) as you turn the flywheel by hand- make sure the plunger "plunges" and pickup turns like they're supposed to.
Then get someone else to turn the flywheel while you trip the knotter bar (at the star wheel on top of the bale chamber) in the rear. Watch the needles as they go through the knotting cycle (no twine or hay in the thing yet, of course)- the eyes of the needles should be very near the bill hook at their furthest upward travel, then go back down to resting position, without the plunger hitting them. Meanwhile, the billhooks should be going through their normal gymnastics. It will be harder to turn the flywheel during the knotting cycle, but not extremely so. If you come up to a "stop" condition in the turning of the flywheel, nudge it a little, back and forth, but don't force it- try to figure out what's froze up and free it rather than break it.
If everything is good so far, hook it up to a tractor and engage the PTO slowly, at idle. Let it run a bit, to get the grease spread around. If all is still well, load with twine, and feed it hay until it goes through a tying cycle. If it won't tie correctly, wait for the manual you ordered to arrive, and start going through it.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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